Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

I have recently bought a set of Dobi lowering springs (35mm) for my R33 GTS25 (2dr). I figured I would look for some second opinions on how to swap out the springs before I free wheel it. I have had a reasonable look but is there already a tutorial to swap out the springs? or can someone help me out with a basic run down? I would love a way that didn't involve removing the rear seats and parcel tray but I realise I can't always have it my way.

Cheers!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415891-lowering-springs/
Share on other sites

If your not mechanically minded then dont attempt it, you need a spring compressor to safely get the old ones off. It is pretty straight forwared though, jack car up, remove wheels, remove struts from the car, swap springs (and/or replace shocks), refit. If you dont have a spring compressor then maybe just get a workshop to do it.

Im pretty sure you dont need to remove the rear seats for the rear struts, I'll have to check mine but access is from the boot (I think).

33 gtst shocks have to be removed from inside the car, which means removing the seats and maybe the parcel tray, i installed coilovers in mine not too long ago, seats pretty easy to do just a lot of extra work...

Have no fear I am prepared with the necessary tools to swap springs and know of the power stored in them. I have swapped springs before but was more looking for tricks to know to make it easier for my car as I haven't done it on any nissan

Then get wheel alignment.......

But yeah, remove seats, remove or lift up parcel tray taking into account that if you have tint on the rear glass you may need to be very carefull to not scratch it with the stock speaker covers.

The struts tops are connected by 2 nuts, you will need to undo the front nuts on some electrical components that cover the strut tops first so you can move them out the way to get to the strut tops.

Then chock the front wheels and jack up the car, place in the safety stands, remove the wheels and then the lower bolt that holds the strut on, using a rubber mallet tap the strut off whilst holding onto the strut to stop it falling.

When replacing seat the top of the struts in the holes, place a jack under the lower part of the shock and slowly jack the shock onto the lower fixing point and tap it into place, do up bolts.

I do it this way by myself but if you have a mate handy you can leave one nut on the top of the strut so when you tap the lower point of it doesnt fall out and potentially damage your car, then hold the strut whilst your mate removes the top nut.

33 gtst shocks have to be removed from inside the car, which means removing the seats and maybe the parcel tray, i installed coilovers in mine not too long ago, seats pretty easy to do just a lot of extra work...

Atleast I know now for when I do my coilovers :)

Then get wheel alignment.......

But yeah, remove seats, remove or lift up parcel tray taking into account that if you have tint on the rear glass you may need to be very carefull to not scratch it with the stock speaker covers.

The struts tops are connected by 2 nuts, you will need to undo the front nuts on some electrical components that cover the strut tops first so you can move them out the way to get to the strut tops.

Then chock the front wheels and jack up the car, place in the safety stands, remove the wheels and then the lower bolt that holds the strut on, using a rubber mallet tap the strut off whilst holding onto the strut to stop it falling.

When replacing seat the top of the struts in the holes, place a jack under the lower part of the shock and slowly jack the shock onto the lower fixing point and tap it into place, do up bolts.

I do it this way by myself but if you have a mate handy you can leave one nut on the top of the strut so when you tap the lower point of it doesnt fall out and potentially damage your car, then hold the strut whilst your mate removes the top nut.

thats pretty much whats needed, i think one of the electrical things has something to do with the fuel gauge, went for a drive without reconnecting it and fuel gauge went to E

i actually broke a piece of my parcel shelf cause i didnt realise there are little clips you have to remove from inside the boot that hold it too the vent.

i found it easier to remove by removing the metal bracket/brace thing on either side of the shelf so i could bend each side down and lift the centre to make it easier...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like it when the counter chick leads you out the back into the racks and says "have a grub around in here and see if you can find what you need. I'll be back in a few minutes. Just left me in front of a massive motorised shelving system and 2-3 million fasteners, so I could find a peculiar SS shoulder bolt with cap head. Gotta love country towns.
    • I used this https://osgiken.com.au/product/os-giken-os-250r-lsd-gear-oil-80w250-1-litre/   shut my nismo 1.5 pro up by heaps…. Not silent though. Gives the car character and personality. It ain’t a carolla. If you want silent, put a quaife in it.
    • It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...