From 200 To 250-280 Rwkw In An R34 Gtt? Aka Yet Another 'aiming For' Thread

[V28VX37]

Hi guys,

I'm dreaming up a list of next mods once the weekender is sold. I've checked several threads like this and this but many of them seem quite dated - I'm looking for 2012 information.

The car is an R34 GTT with basic upgrades: FMIC, full 2.5" turbo back, high flow cat, TurboTech V2 manual boost controller and Nistune. It's currently pushing just shy of 200 rwkw.

I'd be aiming for a reliable 250-280 rwkw in the next stage, preferably without too much lag. I like the idea of a high flow as it bolts straight in. Is this power level possible with a high flow? Are there other companies besides GCG doing good high flows?

Besides high flow, what are the other options when staying low mount? Something like a HKS GT-RS?

Also I assume the basic supporting mods are a Z32 AFM, 040 fuel pump and injectors (what size?). What else is needed? Also I'd be retaining the Tiptronic auto, would it cope?

What kind of overall cost would I be looking at? I'm not keen on doing engine internals, cams, or running E85 etc.

Any feedback and recent experiences welcome.

Thanks

[GTSBoy]

This is easy. Check the Hypergear thread. There's 338 pages right now. You need to read the first few, then the most recent few. Then check out Hypergear's site (links in the first post). There are a few options for hitting your desired power levels with high flows and bolton brand new turbos.

You're going to need at least 500cc injectors. Probably worth getting smoe ID1000s, which will work fine at your intended power level and also support E85/Eflex should you go down that path.

The auto will probably end up shitting itself. You could wait for it to do it then build a stronger one, or you could get it kitted straight away. I'd swap in a manual myself.

Turbo is <$1500. Probably cost you ~$500 to install it. Probably cost you ~$500 for the extra bits and pieces that woudl be smart (like a new steel/alloy turbo inlet instead of the sucky shutty rubber one). Injectors aren't too expensive. I'm not sure where they are cheapest right now. You need a tune, that's several hundred, plus the install of the pump and AFM. So you're in the ballpark of a few grand without considering the gearbag.

Oh, you need a 3" exhaust too. Don't know how you managed to get a 2.5" exhaust on it......it's not like they're common.

[Hanaldo]

Two threads for you to check out mate, the RB25 Turbo Upgrade thread and the Hypergear thread. Both will tell you everything you need to know. Costs depend on what parts you end up going for, best to do a bit of reading first and then set yourself a budget.

[TM7GTR]

What about a gt3076r?

[AngryRB]

This is easy. Check the Hypergear thread. There's 338 pages right now. You need to read the first few, then the most recent few. Then check out Hypergear's site (links in the first post). There are a few options for hitting your desired power levels with high flows and bolton brand new turbos.

You're going to need at least 500cc injectors. Probably worth getting smoe ID1000s, which will work fine at your intended power level and also support E85/Eflex should you go down that path.

The auto will probably end up shitting itself. You could wait for it to do it then build a stronger one, or you could get it kitted straight away. I'd swap in a manual myself.

Turbo is <$1500. Probably cost you ~$500 to install it. Probably cost you ~$500 for the extra bits and pieces that woudl be smart (like a new steel/alloy turbo inlet instead of the sucky shutty rubber one). Injectors aren't too expensive. I'm not sure where they are cheapest right now. You need a tune, that's several hundred, plus the install of the pump and AFM. So you're in the ballpark of a few grand without considering the gearbag.

Oh, you need a 3" exhaust too. Don't know how you managed to get a 2.5" exhaust on it......it's not like they're common.

for the injectors contact injectorsonline.com , i got my 1000cc ID's for $110each which is very reasonable, ive read on the forums a gt3076 can be had for $1200 from ATP in the usa, that would do the job nicely but not would need a custom dump pipe, probably need one anyway, you'll need atleast 3inch dump, the intake pipe isnt hard either could even do that yourself, buy a mandrel bent pipe from exhaust shope and some silicon hoses..

[Mitcho_7]

I like the idea of a high flow as it bolts straight in.

Gt3076r will certainly make 280kw+, but the op doesn't look like he would want to go down that road due to being slightly more complicated to put in due to needing a new dump and turbo lines.

And the gt3076r's that do bolt up to the Nissan standard dump are average at best.

Edited December 21, 2012 by Mitcho_7

[Mitcho_7]

for the injectors contact injectorsonline.com , i got my 1000cc ID's for $110each which is very reasonable, ive read on the forums a gt3076 can be had for $1200 from ATP in the usa.

I got my gt3076 from ATP and it certainly wasn't that cheap.

Id1000s are a tight squeeze under the stock plenum (it's doable though) and do you need a new rail for the 34's or not?

I reckon a Hypergear ss2 is the go for sure!

[gtsttrk]

From what I've read I believe that 280kw would be out of the question with 250-260 being the max for the output on a 34 hi flowed turbo. There's some very helpful info in the Hypergear thread, and Stao is great to talk too. Very helpful and knowledgeable. I'd suggest looking at the SS1PU (good for a street driven car, responsive and good for around 260kw) or the SS2 (externally gated, 280 is attainable).

Not to sure about the auto, but I'd imagine it would start to slip at these power levels. Once again I'd suggest having a read through the automatic performance thread.

[AngryRB]

I got my gt3076 from ATP and it certainly wasn't that cheap.

Id1000s are a tight squeeze under the stock plenum (it's doable though) and do you need a new rail for the 34's or not?

I reckon a Hypergear ss2 is the go for sure!

how much was yours then cause i was considering getting one from them... i got the 1000's in my 33 with a cheap topfeed rail so should be no problem with the 34..

dont the hypergear's need alot of boost, most graphs i see use over 20psi , so not great for the auto box..

[gtsttrk]

how much was yours then cause i was considering getting one from them... i got the 1000's in my 33 with a cheap topfeed rail so should be no problem with the 34..

dont the hypergear's need alot of boost, most graphs i see use over 20psi , so not great for the auto box..

Hypergear test car ran an SS2 at 22 PSI (?) from memory. Doubt the auto would handle that at all. OP would require some serious work I'd imagine for the auto to handle that, plus I'd say you'd be playing roulette on stock internals running that as a daily?

Edited December 21, 2012 by gtsttrk

[V28VX37]

Awesome thanks for the responses guys! Back to my homework then.

Oh yeah and the exhaust is 3" with a 3.5" section between the mufflers ... I must've been thinking of the twin 2.5" on the Monaro, do'h.

[petero'nell]

Hypergear test car ran an SS2 at 22 PSI (?) from memory. Doubt the auto would handle that at all. OP would require some serious work I'd imagine for the auto to handle that, plus I'd say you'd be playing roulette on stock internals running that as a daily?

Hypergear uses the test car to show maximum turbo capacity, those results are probably of when they stops making power. I'm making 261rwkws close to stock response out of their ss1pu turbo on 17psi of boost. Give Stao a ring and pay him a visit, he can high flow your stockie or customize some thing for your needs.

[Mitcho_7]

my op6 high flow made 248kw on 18psi and i think generally a standard highflow in most cases wont fit the bill.

Seriously consider and ss2. Even internally gated it should easily make 250kw+ on an auto, then get scotty to knock you up an intake, throw on a z32 and some injectors and you'll be set.

[hypergear]

The SS2 in .63 rear or a SS2 OP6 high flow seems to be working well with auto trans. This is my very first SS2, it was sold to an auto owner and tuned last year. The car made a responsive 259rwkws peeking 18psi of boost. I'm not sure if the transmission has been worked. R34's select speed auto has pretty long gear ratios, setups felt abit laggy on a manual is pretty laggy on the auto. The SS2 in .63 / OP6 highflow or the SS1PU is probably the top choice for a internal gate bolton for your goal.

I will be around through out xmas period, come pass for abit of test drive or have chat when you free.

SS2 .63 Auto, Pump 98

[Hanaldo]

how much was yours then cause i was considering getting one from them... i got the 1000's in my 33 with a cheap topfeed rail so should be no problem with the 34..

dont the hypergear's need alot of boost, most graphs i see use over 20psi , so not great for the auto box..

Hypergear test car ran an SS2 at 22 PSI (?) from memory. Doubt the auto would handle that at all. OP would require some serious work I'd imagine for the auto to handle that, plus I'd say you'd be playing roulette on stock internals running that as a daily?

How on Earth does boost pressure have anything to do with the transmission?

[WMDC35]

hypergear looks the business for this setup, don't think the stock trans will take too much enthusiastic driving though

[Manuel Kasko]

How on Earth does boost pressure have anything to do with the transmission?

I was going to ask this as well.

Maybe if the turbo kicked in to fast it can make the gears slip or something but that has nothing to do with boost it has to do with turbo choice

[GTSBoy]

boost = power = shorter slushbox life.

[gtsttrk]

How on Earth does boost pressure have anything to do with the transmission?

Yeah I worded this very very poorly. What I was tryig to say (poorly) was that I didn't think that the stock auto would be able to handle the power levels (ie. 280ish kw), but yeah I worded it very poorly.

Reference to the boost levels was in response to the poster commenting on the boost that the hypergear turbos ran in the test.

But yeah reading over it I can see how it's caused confusion!

[AngryRB]

I was going to ask this as well.

Maybe if the turbo kicked in to fast it can make the gears slip or something but that has nothing to do with boost it has to do with turbo choice

Maybe the right word instead of boost should of been "Torque", which is different for different turbo's with varying boost, on the same turbo though more boost will strain the clutches and they'll slip, also how much the auto slips the gears in compared to just dropping them in more, maybe if the solenoids could be adjusted to drop gears in more and less slipping would be a good thing to do.. My first skyline r31 auto was running 14psi which i didnt know until the gears started slipping badly, so more boost in that instance meant failure, dont know how much better the rb25 box is..

Edited December 22, 2012 by SliverS2