From 200 To 250-280 Rwkw In An R34 Gtt? Aka Yet Another 'aiming For' Thread

[GTScotT]

I would go an SS2 using the OP6 rear housing.

Later you can easily change to a .82 type B housing if you need more top end

[jet_r31]

auto will need shiftkit and a billet second gear servo, that might be enough to get it to hold without a full rebuild, but

that would be the bare essentials you would have to do

cheers

darren

[kwickr33]

whats a shift kit for R34 worth? I've also got a Auto 4 door undecided at moment.

[V28VX37]

  On 21/12/2012 at 12:39 PM, hypergear said:

The SS2 in .63 rear or a SS2 OP6 high flow seems to be working well with auto trans. This is my very first SS2, it was sold to an auto owner and tuned last year. The car made a responsive 259rwkws peeking 18psi of boost. I'm not sure if the transmission has been worked. R34's select speed auto has pretty long gear ratios, setups felt abit laggy on a manual is pretty laggy on the auto. The SS2 in .63 / OP6 highflow or the SS1PU is probably the top choice for a internal gate bolton for your goal.

I will be around through out xmas period, come pass for abit of test drive or have chat when you free.

SS2 .63 Auto, Pump 98

Thanks for jumping in Stao, and sorry about the slow reply! Good information there, cheers.

Quick question on the turbos, given the power goal what's the difference between an SS2 highflow and a comparable ATR bolt-on turbo? I'd be chasing responsiveness rather than massive peak power. Pricewise they seem roughly on par, is that right?

  On 23/12/2012 at 10:10 AM, jet_r31 said:

auto will need shiftkit and a billet second gear servo, that might be enough to get it to hold without a full rebuild, but

that would be the bare essentials you would have to do

cheers

darren

  On 23/12/2012 at 10:34 AM, kwickr33 said:

whats a shift kit for R34 worth? I've also got a Auto 4 door undecided at moment.

Ok, I'll have to have a proper think about this now... A recent quote from MV lists stage 2 shift kit at just under $400 (valve body only) plus just under $300 for the billet 2nd gear servo. Factor in labour and it starts adding up.

A complete rebuild - without the shift kit - is $3-3.5k from what I know. Then if you want high stall it's additional cost again. So it looks like if you want to strengthen the auto to handle the 250-280rwkw, you can have a manual conversion for the same money or even a touch less - does this sound right??

[abr33]

Keep auto's strength in mind, mine shat itself 2000kms into having 260rwkw. Box had 140,000 on it and low oil though..

I was going to get a c4 built to handle massive power, but at 5k plus stally, manual was the best option

[jet_r31]

  On 30/01/2013 at 11:11 AM, abr33 said:

Keep auto's strength in mind, mine shat itself 2000kms into having 260rwkw. Box had 140,000 on it and low oil though..

I was going to get a c4 built to handle massive power, but at 5k plus stally, manual was the best option

If you have a R33..its a difference box to R34 that the post starter has...

Mv's billet servo and shiftkit fitted is $900. I hate turbo manual cars, unless you circuit race or blast through the hills,

i think they suck , i much prefer my seemless delivery of torque that only auto turbo cars with a converter have...

so i never think in manual conversion terms, you have to work it out for yourself..

cheers

darren

[V28VX37]

  On 30/01/2013 at 11:21 AM, jet_r31 said:

Mv's billet servo and shiftkit fitted is $900.

Umm my quote for these was $700 for parts only, delivered, plus $100 core change fee that will be refunded.

I thought you have to drop the whole trans to install, just $200 at a trans shop sounds like a great deal?

Fair point about manual vs. auto with forced induction, I do like the power delivery with the Tiptronic and it's only ~200rwkw at the moment...

[V28VX37]

  On 21/12/2012 at 9:18 AM, V28VX37 said:

The car is an R34 GTT with basic upgrades: FMIC, full 3" turbo back, high flow cat, TurboTech V2 manual boost controller and Nistune. It's currently pushing just shy of 200 rwkw.

I'd be aiming for a reliable 250-280 rwkw in the next stage, preferably without too much lag.

...

Also I assume the basic supporting mods are a Z32 AFM, 040 fuel pump and injectors (what size?). What else is needed?

...

Ok I am slowly putting together a shopping list, which currently looks like this:

• $1470 - HyperGear ATR43-SS1PU OR SS2 Turbocharger (Nissan Rb25det OEM upgrade)
• $88 - Braided oil feeding line - HyperGear
• $671 - DeatschWerks Fuel Injector Set 600cc OR 850cc (Nissan RB25DET NEO 98-02) - GCG
• $210 - Bosch 040 High Capacity Fuel Pump - Just Jap
• $299 - Genuine Bosch Z32 Air Flow Meter - Just Jap
• $99 - JJR Silicone Induction Pipe (Nissan Skyline ECR33/ER34)
• $10 - JJR Stainless Mesh Air Filter - Universal
• $1,000+? - Fit and (re)tune

So about 4k all up, ouch

Couple of questions:

1. Intake: Is the JJR Silicone Induction Pipe good enough for a 280rwkw application? If not, where would I get a direct fit metal intake pipe that doesn't need a lot of hacking to install on an R34 GTT?
2. Airbox: Could I still run the stock airbox + snorkel + K&N panel filter or is it too restrictive? I'm not a big fan of a pod filter if I can avoid it.
3. Injectors: What kind of power range do 600cc/850cc ones support? Is there such a thing as 'too big' injectors? I'm not planning on running E85.

Thanks!

[GTSBoy]

Silicone intakes suck the wang. You could search on here for the answer to metal intake availability.

Airbox will be fine.

600cc injectors are good for roughly 600HP (engine). You can do the maths for 850cc ones.

[NISMOGTT]

If it helps you decide, I have 850cc injectors running 260rwkw and my PFC never goes about 50% duty on injectors.

[34GeeTeeTee]

  On 03/07/2013 at 1:47 PM, V28VX37 said:

Ok I am slowly putting together a shopping list, which currently looks like this:

• $1470 - HyperGear ATR43-SS1PU OR SS2 Turbocharger (Nissan Rb25det OEM upgrade)
• $88 - Braided oil feeding line - HyperGear
• $671 - DeatschWerks Fuel Injector Set 600cc OR 850cc (Nissan RB25DET NEO 98-02) - GCG
• $210 - Bosch 040 High Capacity Fuel Pump - Just Jap
• $299 - Genuine Bosch Z32 Air Flow Meter - Just Jap
• $99 - JJR Silicone Induction Pipe (Nissan Skyline ECR33/ER34)
• $10 - JJR Stainless Mesh Air Filter - Universal
• $1,000+? - Fit and (re)tune

So about 4k all up, ouch

Couple of questions:

1. Intake: Is the JJR Silicone Induction Pipe good enough for a 280rwkw application? If not, where would I get a direct fit metal intake pipe that doesn't need a lot of hacking to install on an R34 GTT?
2. Airbox: Could I still run the stock airbox + snorkel + K&N panel filter or is it too restrictive? I'm not a big fan of a pod filter if I can avoid it.
3. Injectors: What kind of power range do 600cc/850cc ones support? Is there such a thing as 'too big' injectors? I'm not planning on running E85.

Thanks!

Not likely if they are fitting all of that and doing a tune?

[Hanaldo]

Yeh I'd say closer to 1500 to fit and tune. 1000 if you installed the turbo yourself.

[RandomHero83]

  On 03/07/2013 at 1:47 PM, V28VX37 said:

Ok I am slowly putting together a shopping list, which currently looks like this:

• $1470 - HyperGear ATR43-SS1PU OR SS2 Turbocharger (Nissan Rb25det OEM upgrade)
• $88 - Braided oil feeding line - HyperGear
• $671 - DeatschWerks Fuel Injector Set 600cc OR 850cc (Nissan RB25DET NEO 98-02) - GCG
• $210 - Bosch 040 High Capacity Fuel Pump - Just Jap
• $299 - Genuine Bosch Z32 Air Flow Meter - Just Jap
• $99 - JJR Silicone Induction Pipe (Nissan Skyline ECR33/ER34)
• $10 - JJR Stainless Mesh Air Filter - Universal
• $1,000+? - Fit and (re)tune

So about 4k all up, ouch

Couple of questions:

1. Intake: Is the JJR Silicone Induction Pipe good enough for a 280rwkw application? If not, where would I get a direct fit metal intake pipe that doesn't need a lot of hacking to install on an R34 GTT?
2. Airbox: Could I still run the stock airbox + snorkel + K&N panel filter or is it too restrictive? I'm not a big fan of a pod filter if I can avoid it.
3. Injectors: What kind of power range do 600cc/850cc ones support? Is there such a thing as 'too big' injectors? I'm not planning on running E85.

Thanks!

Go 850 CC Injectors I have 660's and I am close to topping out with my config at 281RWKW running a Hypergear SS1PU

Get a metal intake pipe, the silicone ones tend to suck in @ big boost levels.

Full 3" turbo back exhaust, 2.5" is going to be hella restrictive (you would already be making more power if it was larger)

Coil packs (Splitfire or Yellow Jacket)

Hypergear SS1PU is perfect for this application, It spools like factory and is able to do big boost.

First rule of forced induction, More flow in + More flow out = More power.

If you don't upgrade that exhaust your tuner will only be able to pull a tiny bit more power safely, Put a 3" bellmouth JJR dump on it, a race cat and a 3" cat back system (can get decent cat back systems 2nd hand for cheap) and it will make a massive difference.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

  On 04/07/2013 at 6:14 AM, RandomHero83 said:

Coil packs (Splitfire or Yellow Jacket)

[Cyifly]

Are you in qld?? I'm really interested in all projects building and squeezing power out of neo motors.

I have one for example high boost o be set yet but I'm making 336kw 15.5 pound but mine is built

[GotsWapan]

I've seen Nismo 555cc topping out at around 300rwkw I've never seen 660's start to top out that early. Correct me if I'm wrong?

[V28VX37]

Awesome, thanks guys!!

Ok so it sounds like the 850cc injectors are a better bet to have some headroom in the future. I assume there's no difference in fuel consumption between 600cc and 850cc if tuned correctly?

With the metal intake pipe, without going all custom I can't find anything except for the CAPP53 here ($135). However, they say that "You will need a smaller aftermarket pod filter and BOV though" on a GTT, really? Not keen on changing the bov if I can help it.

1.5k fitted and tuned, ok... I could do the intake stuff myself but not so keen on touching the fuel system or turbo so I better pay someone who know's what they're doing.

  On 04/07/2013 at 6:14 AM, RandomHero83 said:

Go 850 CC Injectors I have 660's and I am close to topping out with my config at 281RWKW running a Hypergear SS1PU

Get a metal intake pipe, the silicone ones tend to suck in @ big boost levels.

Full 3" turbo back exhaust, 2.5" is going to be hella restrictive (you would already be making more power if it was larger)

Coil packs (Splitfire or Yellow Jacket)

Hypergear SS1PU is perfect for this application, It spools like factory and is able to do big boost.

First rule of forced induction, More flow in + More flow out = More power.

If you don't upgrade that exhaust your tuner will only be able to pull a tiny bit more power safely, Put a 3" bellmouth JJR dump on it, a race cat and a 3" cat back system (can get decent cat back systems 2nd hand for cheap) and it will make a massive difference.

Great summary, thanks! Where did you get your intake pipe from? Are you running a pod or the original airbox?

Re supporting mods, the exhaust is a 3" HKS Super Drager with JJR bellmouth and a high flow cat so it should be fine (the 2.5" was a typo).

It's also got a Trust return flow cooler and Yellow Jacket coils on already.

Cyifly - I'm in Melb.

Edited July 4, 2013 by V28VX37

[jet_r31]

Speak to Scott nm35 on here, he makes metal intake pipes and sells them in a kit for a very good price, hes in melbourne aswell

cheers

darren

[34GeeTeeTee]

  On 04/07/2013 at 9:22 AM, Cyifly said:

Are you in qld?? I'm really interested in all projects building and squeezing power out of neo motors.

I have one for example high boost o be set yet but I'm making 336kw 15.5 pound but mine is built

What turbo is that?

[RandomHero83]

  On 04/07/2013 at 11:49 AM, V28VX37 said:

Awesome, thanks guys!!

Ok so it sounds like the 850cc injectors are a better bet to have some headroom in the future. I assume there's no difference in fuel consumption between 600cc and 850cc if tuned correctly?

With the metal intake pipe, without going all custom I can't find anything except for the CAPP53 here ($135). However, they say that "You will need a smaller aftermarket pod filter and BOV though" on a GTT, really? Not keen on changing the bov if I can help it.

1.5k fitted and tuned, ok... I could do the intake stuff myself but not so keen on touching the fuel system or turbo so I better pay someone who know's what they're doing.

Great summary, thanks! Where did you get your intake pipe from? Are you running a pod or the original airbox?

Re supporting mods, the exhaust is a 3" HKS Super Drager with JJR bellmouth and a high flow cat so it should be fine (the 2.5" was a typo).

It's also got a Trust return flow cooler and Yellow Jacket coils on already.

Cyifly - I'm in Melb.

Good to hear the supporting mods are in place.

I had my tuner make my Turbo intake pipe, I run a pod in a CAI box with a pipe running up from the front bar to pump cold air in while driving. ^^ Darren (Jet_r31) just made a recommendation for someone who makes them who may be local for you.

I run a HKS SSQ BoV and have no probs, Larger filter means more surface area to suck in air.

The fuel consumption should be the same with a proper tune as they are just capable of flowing more fuel, If set correctly that should only occur at High RPM / WOT.