Antz 1994 R32 Gtr Project & Restoration

[whizzn]

I would of sent them to ceramic coaters before putting back together personally but good job non the less

[Ants]

Actually I just ordered some brand new HKS actuators for the -5s and some other go fast bits so I will take them out again and probably send them to Comp Coatings (if I don't file for bankruptcy before then )

Edited January 6, 2013 by Ants

[coopeR32]

I'm sure 99% of all bankruptcy cases are GTR owners . Great build love seeing the progress shots

[Nur33]

I'm sure 99% of all bankruptcy cases are GTR owners . Great build love seeing the progress shots

I agree lol

[Ants]

I agree lol

I'm sure 99% of all bankruptcy cases are GTR owners . Great build love seeing the progress shots

Yeah, you need to have some deep pockets (of cold hard $$$) not only to own a GTR but to maintain one

Edited January 7, 2013 by Ants

[Ants]

As my engine is going to be shipped to my mechanic soon I have been flat out trying to put the car back together.

When I took off the left front fender I noticed the sh!tty spot welds on the front apron joints due to the car having a light smack in the front nose when it was living in Japan (certainly not my doing )

So I wanted to do something about that.

I got my trusty drill and started to drill them out like so

Then I went to my favourite shop on Earth.....you guessed it Bunnings and got this beauty

and did this with it

I also tackled other shonky spot welds with the powerfile

Then I sanded it and resprayed with some White Knight Rust Guard white paint (my daughter in back is wondering why her Dad is always in the bloody garage )

Just another photo of the end result

This also needed to fixed up as it was actually all bent (I do not have a clear photo of it before) and so I straighted to the best I could with some heavy duty pliers

Photo of LHS corner apron straightened a bit more, sanded and resprayed, paint job was crappy but I'm not concerned about that (who's gonna see it )

The brackets where the front reo bar attaches was also having its fair share of rust orgy, so better treat that now before it gets worse

RHS shot of rust on front reo bar brackets

Powerfile time (I just love tools )

Photo after going to town with electric sander (took like 30secs to do)

Then sanded with 1200 wet and dry sandpaper and resprayed with anti-rust primer and then a final coat of Holts autospray DSSB01 (sh!t spray but again don't care). I also took the tape off too early which is why I accidentally pealed some paint off, but nothing major.

I also cleaned the a/c radiator (you would be surprised how much dust, gravel and dirt it actually holds)

Cleaned the a/c radiator cooling fan as well

Then the fun bit....I started to put back together

Instead of putting the old botls into place I put M3 x 8mm cap screws on which dresses the car a bit better and I find them easier to work with too

So going from this....

To this....

It may not look like much but you need a lot of patience and time to do this but is all worth it

[Ants]

Decided to give the wheels a bit of clean today

Photo of (dirty) front BBS LM wheel

So much brake dust and dirt

Rinsed off after cleaning with some sugar soap (but any soap will do)

Photo of inside rim after being cleaned with sugar soap and then scrubbed with steel wool.

Now for the interesting part....

Get your hands on this which you can procure from Autobarn - VHT Hi-temp clear coat wheel paint - cost approx $13 per can

and spray the inside of the rim with it (after being cleaned off course ) and you should get it nice and glossy like this. The benefits of this is that when you next come to clean your rims it will be a lot easier.

Reason why I wanted to clean them rims was not only to make then clean but also be ready for this

I think you guys already know what this is

A bit more of hint....

You guessed right brand new AP racing front brake kit

New AP Racing 6 Pot Front Calipers with 343mm sloted rotors....I am not going to even mention the cost of this but I got it from Comp Friction in ACT and they were very helpful.

Nissan Skyline GTR's do not come from the factory with a strong brake setup and I think this is well worth it. May get the rear brake setup a another time as my bank account is getting @ss r@ped right now

Anyways, I will post up pics of brakes on car once they are installed.

Better go now, it is my daughters third birthday so

Edited January 9, 2013 by Ants

[whizzn]

PM me the prices on those brakes please

[Ants]

Sure mate.

Got the invoice at work.

Will send tomorow.

[SILKGOD]

Nice work.

[Ants]

Thanks mate.

[SiR_RB]

When's the engine arrive?

[Ants]

Well, had a set back today

As I was looking under the front left side of the car I spotted this under the deadner material

and this

OMFG!!!! was what went through my mind at first....nasty mother rust. Must say that my agenda of putting car back together today went right out the f@#king window (yeah I was pretty pissed off )

Anyways, this is restoration / build thread so might as well deal with it as one and move on.

So first, I chiseld off and sanded as much as I could to see how far the rust had spread

Gone right through the forearm of the chassis (Farkin :woot: :woot: hellll!!!!!)

The rust ate right through the metal....so diheartening but were gonna fix it

The mess......but were gonna clean it up as well (the drops of water is sweat and tears)

So prepp time

Let's cover up the brakes so nothing gets in there

Then prepare the power file with some amunition like above

and then powerfile the bejesus out of it the rusted areas p.s. always were protective eye wear as one the sand belts flew right off like a rocket on steroids while I was doing this)

Eventually got to this stage where I could not really use the power file anymore nor sand manually (without taking 1 billion hours to do). To be honest if I had more time and the right tools (and skills required) I would actually cut this out and reweld it with and new plate but unfortunately this is outside the scope of my current restoration / build thread as my engine has arrived in Australia now. So will deal with that another time.

Before treating the rusted areas I wiped it up with the above and is a must to ensure that the area is completely clean before spray painting

resprayed with Knight White ANTI-RUST (light grey in color)

after it is dry (takes a good 20mins)

I used this instead of the standard bog as it is easier to use and you can mold it to your liking rapidly

Photo after applying knead it auto fix

That is as far as it goes as I pretty much spent the entire day doing this under extreme conditions.

Next week I will sand it and respray it and more pics will folow

Edited January 13, 2013 by Ants

[Ants]

When's the engine arrive?

Engine has arrived and is currently in transit from Hi Octane Racing to Gavin Wood Autotech.

I plan on taking photos and posting them up when it is delivered and unpackaged from its crate.

Edited January 13, 2013 by Ants

[Waxhead]

Nice repair job, bet you were spewing when you first discovered the rust. Hopefully you are feeling better now that it is in hand.

Great build thread, keep it up!!

[Ants]

Thanks Scott.

Yeah, I was spewing but I did something about it.

That was just one side of the car though. I need to check the other side and everywhere esle with my x-ray glasses to see if any rusts has got to the car.

I guess that is what you get for car that is 18 years old and everyone should really be looking out for this nasty disease and treat it asap before it gets worse.

Edited January 15, 2013 by Ants

[Ants]

Surprise time.

Got this today

Nismo reinforced clutch pedal bracket

Tomei adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Have a guess!

HKS Fuel rail (is so beauitfully crafted)

Made to suit 11mm injectors and this will house HKS 1,000cc injectors (once they are ordered)

Have another guess...

Brand new (1bar) HKS actuartor kit for the -5s

Lastly, a new nismo radiator cap as I kind of damaged mine a littel with the paint stripper

I have some more parts coming so whatch this space.

Forgot to mention that this is all from Perfect Run Japan and are great to deal with

Edited January 15, 2013 by Ants

[Ants]

Right so I wanted to sort out that rust on front LHS.

So to do this we are going to need this

BOSCH orbital sander and this...

Pretty coarse stuff, but then again we need to get this....

and this....

Like this

Restorer's beware sanding this Knead It Auto Fix goes bloody everywhere and I spent more time cleaning up than anything else....but I keep focused on the end result

Then respray with this....

White Knight Rust guard (grey in color) this stuff dries very quickly (10mins)

and then get hold of this stuff (got it from Super CheapAuto costs approx. $23 per can)

End result (still drying)

I have identified a little more rust (unfortunately ) but will treat after engine and tuning is complete.

So rust is sorted....for now.

Edited January 16, 2013 by Ants

[Ants]

Quick update. ENGINE IS HERE :banana:

Enjoy

I am number 57

I have not taken the plastic off yet as I did not want to get dust and crap in there.

Next time will be dropping off the car once she is restored, ripp out the old powerplant and insert the TOMEI ADVANCE SPEC RB GOODNESS

Edited January 18, 2013 by Ants

[J - Rad]

How much that full engine set you back?