Jump to content
SAU Community

Antz 1994 R32 Gtr Project & Restoration


Recommended Posts

This attitude and this saying is killer.

Well there's no point on dwelling on like a twelve year old girl on something I had no control over.

I just want to get things moving along.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big package arrived today

8d90f438-6ca2-4546-b939-383e4c20f048_zps

(yes, its the replacement parts that got flogged :verymad: )

so first up,

IMG_1827_zpsea1c03b8.jpg

IMG_1825_zpsdb20f7d2.jpg

Nismo Low Temp Thermostat

IMG_1828_zpsea04d394.jpg

Nismo big operating clutch cylinder

IMG_1830_zps5312a480.jpg

Nismo racing release fork pivot (available for pull type models only)

IMG_1831_zpse9e6ceec.jpg

HPI braided clutch line (stainless end-fitting type)

IMG_1829_zps840cb694.jpg

Tomei Fuel Pressure regular (type L)

I also took the liberty of getting theses

IMG_1823_zpsb459bdad.jpg

Tomei fuel pressure regulator fittings

IMG_1824_zpsd8284a8a.jpg

NGK Iridium IX spark plugs (Japanese model)

IMG_1832_zps5da46945.jpg

3x HKS 1,000cc injectors (top-feed off course)

and last item for this parcel

IMG_1818_zps57a470c4.jpg

IMG_1822_zps01b35d0a.jpg

IMG_1819_zps6075a6d9.jpg

Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Plate Clutch Kit

IMG_1821_zpsc062f3f3.jpg

But this time, I took the liberty of getting the competition model which is rated at 780ps (spring pressure 1150kgf) instead of the 640ps (spring pressure 1000kgf) model I had initially purchased

Now its is just a matter of getting back on track with the build.

Cheers,

Anthony

Edited by Ants
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies for offering my condolences so late, Anthony. i don't want to revive bad memories but I'm sorry to hear if your situation. I always thought Aussies drink beer and never steel other peoples crap.

I'm heading to Osaka this weekend for much needed R&R. I have no problem stopping by the candy shops your behalf if you want me to(i.e. SuperAuto Bacs). Besides, I have to pick up some N1 items for a buddy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome thread. Its shit when those scambag target imports since we have more aftermarket parts which can be sold. But seriously its pretty lucky they didnt get the titanium bits as they'd cost a lot too!

I'd love to restore my N1 someday but just dont think I will have the patience like you do. I hate to imagine how much rust will be on mine looking at yours. Arghhhh... Having the car under cover seems to help a lot as the bits which I kinda cleaned up are still fine after 3yrs.

There's just some scratches on mine which I'm thinking of respraying myself. Whats your advise for someone that doesnt have much previous experience other than painting models (like gundams.... hahaha). I suppose you sand down the area and spary with the colour you want and sand again to blend the touch up area with the surrounding and clear coat after? This is at the rear quarter just above the wheel.

BTW, hows perfect run compare to Streeter? PM if its more appropriate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies for offering my condolences so late, Anthony. i don't want to revive bad memories but I'm sorry to hear if your situation. I always thought Aussies drink beer and never steel other peoples crap.

I'm heading to Osaka this weekend for much needed R&R. I have no problem stopping by the candy shops your behalf if you want me to(i.e. SuperAuto Bacs). Besides, I have to pick up some N1 items for a buddy.

Thanks Ruben,

I wished I could come with you to Osaka my friend but I just have too much on plate here....he,he,he,he.

but I'm pleased to know that I can count on you so :thanks: for that

Awesome thread. Its shit when those scambag target imports since we have more aftermarket parts which can be sold. But seriously its pretty lucky they didnt get the titanium bits as they'd cost a lot too!

I'd love to restore my N1 someday but just dont think I will have the patience like you do. I hate to imagine how much rust will be on mine looking at yours. Arghhhh... Having the car under cover seems to help a lot as the bits which I kinda cleaned up are still fine after 3yrs.

There's just some scratches on mine which I'm thinking of respraying myself. Whats your advise for someone that doesnt have much previous experience other than painting models (like gundams.... hahaha). I suppose you sand down the area and spary with the colour you want and sand again to blend the touch up area with the surrounding and clear coat after? This is at the rear quarter just above the wheel.

BTW, hows perfect run compare to Streeter? PM if its more appropriate.

Thanks mate, its always appreciated to hear nice feedback like this.

I've seen your N1 and you have something pretty special there. Although I would not be as concerned about rust on an R33 compared to an R32, it is just a matter of having common sense and ensuring your vehicle is well looked after / maintained.

R33's and R34's will also be prone to rust too, and I'm certain that we will be seeing more restorations for those models in near future. I think my car was quiet neglected in Japan and bodgy repair jobs have given rise to a lot of the rust I recently treated.

As for painting I'm no expert either mate and I just took a punt and gave it a go. If you can get the exact match in can go for it, but if it is going to be for a bigger job (say respray entire car) I think that getting the right equipment is the go i.e. spray gun, air compressor etc...

The best advice I can give you for painting is PREP WORK. Make sure you get drop sheets because paint goes fkn everywhere, masking tape (lots of that too) and newspaper (also lots of it).

I have summarised some basic steps for you to keep in mind in case you do do it yourself:

Step 1 - Clean the object you want to paint with some prep wash (motospray prep wash)

Step 2 - sand or even paint strip your object and then prep wash it.

Step 3 - sand and fill for blemishes

Step 4 - prep for painting i.e. masking tape, newspaper, drop sheets etc...

Step 5 - prime coat (1st coat)

Step 6 - sand if necessary after drying

Step 7 - prime again (2nd coat)

Step 8 - color coat (1st coat) must ensure you wear a mask and try not to overpay (and spray paint in a concealed environment with venting)

Step 9 - 2nd color coat - same as above

Step 10 - top clear coat (you can get some motospray as well)

Then you get the privilege of cleaning up which takes as long as ever :( but end results are worth it :merli: - now you can see why it costs an arm and leg to pay for someone to spray paint for you because it is all in the labor

I have never heard of Streeter t'ill now but all I can say is that I highly recommend Perfect Run Japan and are excellent to deal with and have very quick delivery, and I have sourced 98% of my parts from them.

Cheers,

Antz

Edited by Ants
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started to come along nicely mate, makes you wonder if in fact someone has read on here that your car was down there with those parts ready for picking to lowlife b*stards

Good to see you're still going ahead with everything though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New engine on way shortly actually but will leave those updates for bit later :)

Few pieces i'll be stealing..ahh sorry..copying off you lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ruben,

I wished I could come with you to Osaka my friend but I just have too much on plate here....he,he,he,he.

but I'm pleased to know that I can count on you so :thanks: for that

Thanks mate, its always appreciated to hear nice feedback like this.

I've seen your N1 and you have something pretty special there. Although I would not be as concerned about rust on an R33 compared to an R32, it is just a matter of having common sense and ensuring your vehicle is well looked after / maintained.

R33's and R34's will also be prone to rust too, and I'm certain that we will be seeing more restorations for those models in near future. I think my car was quiet neglected in Japan and bodgy repair jobs have given rise to a lot of the rust I recently treated.

As for painting I'm no expert either mate and I just took a punt and gave it a go. If you can get the exact match in can go for it, but if it is going to be for a bigger job (say respray entire car) I think that getting the right equipment is the go i.e. spray gun, air compressor etc...

The best advice I can give you for painting is PREP WORK. Make sure you get drop sheets because paint goes fkn everywhere, masking tape (lots of that too) and newspaper (also lots of it).

I have summarised some basic steps for you to keep in mind in case you do do it yourself:

Step 1 - Clean the object you want to paint with some prep wash (motospray prep wash)

Step 2 - sand or even paint strip your object and then prep wash it.

Step 3 - sand and fill for blemishes

Step 4 - prep for painting i.e. masking tape, newspaper, drop sheets etc...

Step 5 - prime coat (1st coat)

Step 6 - sand if necessary after drying

Step 7 - prime again (2nd coat)

Step 8 - color coat (1st coat) must ensure you wear a mask and try not to overpay (and spray paint in a concealed environment with venting)

Step 9 - 2nd color coat - same as above

Step 10 - top clear coat (you can get some motospray as well)

Then you get the privilege of cleaning up which takes as long as ever :( but end results are worth it :merli: - now you can see why it costs an arm and leg to pay for someone to spray paint for you because it is all in the labor

I have never heard of Streeter t'ill now but all I can say is that I highly recommend Perfect Run Japan and are excellent to deal with and have very quick delivery, and I have sourced 98% of my parts from them.

Cheers,

Antz

No worries. Thanks for the tips. Thats what I've been telling myself now that we have a little baby girl.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

just read all your build thread being a no sleep :P hahah

i would be so gutted about the stuff being stolen.

you my friend are an amazing person to show this much care to a car, not any car but a slkyine aswell.

now to the engine :P tour red top 26 pm me about it?

which motor was siezed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

congrats on the build so far m8, looks meticulously modified to say the least. Noticed u have N1 headlights, these smoked indicators would look awesome

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTR-GTS-SMOKED-CLEAR-CORNER-LIGHTS-INDICATORS-RB26-RB20-nismo-/221197912270?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33806c48ce

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just read all your build thread being a no sleep :P hahah

i would be so gutted about the stuff being stolen.

you my friend are an amazing person to show this much care to a car, not any car but a slkyine aswell.

now to the engine :P tour red top 26 pm me about it?

which motor was siezed?

Thanks for the support Zac. This car is my mistress and I like to give it as much :wub: as possible ;)

I will pm you regarding my old engine.

congrats on the build so far m8, looks meticulously modified to say the least. Noticed u have N1 headlights, these smoked indicators would look awesome

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTR-GTS-SMOKED-CLEAR-CORNER-LIGHTS-INDICATORS-RB26-RB20-nismo-/221197912270?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33806c48ce

thanks mate, yes I've seen those but I kinda want to retain the OEM indicators as I prefer them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Ants! I just read through your build thread... i was bored at work today :)

Loving your attention to detail, I wish i had the time (and $$) to put as much into my GTR. Maybe when I retire mine as my daily.

I'm glad you've soldiered on looking forward to seeing the end result of all your work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
    • https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2021-nissan-skyline-400r-auto-rv37/SSE-AD-17857548/ Well there you go 
    • Chris won't reply. He doesn't visit the forum much anymore. You can try these guys https://www.facebook.com/autotainment/ They did mine many years ago
×
×
  • Create New...