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hi

i've put replacement 4x6 and 6.5 coax into the car.

I have a alpine 9833 hu which has t/a.

what is the best way to move the sound stage forward without losing bass (which is what happens when I use the fader).

can t/a account for speaker sizes or just distance?

ideally i'd like to jus trun the 6.5 coax in the rear as woofers for bass, maybe run them off some component crossovers for woofer only?

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hi

i've put replacement 4x6 and 6.5 coax into the car.

I have a alpine 9833 hu which has t/a.

what is the best way to move the sound stage forward without losing bass (which is what happens when I use the fader).

can t/a account for speaker sizes or just distance?

ideally i'd like to jus trun the 6.5 coax in the rear as woofers for bass, maybe run them off some component crossovers for woofer only?

Well lets see

Time alignment =T.A for those at home

Time alignment doesn't need speaker size ( some TA uses it for a baseline but not required )

But it can take into account the bandwidth / freq response of the car and your actual speaker while running a test tone if your RTA / MiC the car

Your speaker selection sadly is prob the worse option for SQ you could have

SQ sounds best with no rears or just bass in the rear ( surround sound is different setup then SQ car)

the 4x 6 will never cut a front stage unless its a plate 4x6 with a separate mid and tweet on a plate and even then the speakers are sub standard

The only way to use the existing rears is put a coil on them and cut the tweeters off the system Not wise but can be done , easier to do a 6.5 sub box in a band pass box ported thru the rear deck holes( don't laugh at the size the highest scoring car in IASCA SQ history runs 6.5 in a band pass box) they can pound for so small , they won't blow your hair back but sound damn nice

So best option ditch current speakers do a custom setup , custom install ( not cut the car)

a decent amp or plan for one ,2channel, or 4 , or two one for fronts one for sub

Or 5 channel , run the fronts active ( one channel to each speaker for tonnes of headroom punch) and sub

And road kill the doors, rear deck metal, min

speakers down with tweeters below mids ,low actually move the stage forward and slightly up by placing the speakers further from your ears

dash or A pillar speakers may sound brighter but floods the windshield with sound and blurs the separation of instruments , and can be very harsh , amplify noise ( hiss, whine etc)

a RTA test can see the peaks and valleys and noise floor

if you lower the noise floor by 3db it's the same as doubling your amp power !! ( noise floor is the sound with nothing on in a quiet location or engine on , radio on but volume down all the way ) normal house noise floor is about 50-60db

A skyline at idle can be 80-100db

My car with just sound deadened is so quiet inside you can listen to the iPhone speaker on the highway with it in the console !!

Without it you can't hear it at all with windows up!! And my car isn't that loud compared to some around

If there is interest I would draw up diagrams of setups sooner rather then mid next year lol

Edited by Carbon 34

i will prob go 6.5 splits in the new year. still not sure if i want a sub or not as i don't want to lose any space.

i tried to put in my alpine type s coax 6.5 in the door with a 12mm spacer, i got it to clear the window but then i couldn't put the door trim on.'

i think when i get splits i'll get a pro to install it.

i will prob go 6.5 splits in the new year. still not sure if i want a sub or not as i don't want to lose any space.

i tried to put in my alpine type s coax 6.5 in the door with a 12mm spacer, i got it to clear the window but then i couldn't put the door trim on.'

i think when i get splits i'll get a pro to install it.

Yeah that would be a drastic difference

You can put in a sub that uses 0 space

One fits behind the panel or in the spare tyre ( actually in the spare not the well)

Depending on your model you can do other things as well

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