Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, my r33 is in need of a proper clean including a good cut n polish etc as there are some marks on the paint ever since those buggers at Jack Hillermans repaired it from an accident 18 months ago. Whilst they did a good job on the repair, they left marks all over the car seemingly from where they had taped plastic around it... I don't drive the car much so didn't cotton into it until later. Its hard to explain these marks but they annoy me when i see the sun reflect off them. I dunno if it stripped the clear coat, stained, something that's visible when light reflects off it. They are mostly around the door handles and rear bumper. Anyway, im after someone who can give the car a good solid clean and fix up this stuff as well. I don't want to waste a day stuffing around myself and potentially not even get the outcome I want. So options please.... either around the lower north shore (chatswood/st leonards etc) or Campbelltown areas. Thanks!

Not far from Chatswood at all is...

Eugene Chan (aka JDM_Performance) here on SAU.

He has polished/sealed/waxed several cars that have won awards.

0421.141.538 and he might be best engaged to spend a couple of days on your car.

  • 2 weeks later...

You may be able to get away with it by cutting it yourself. I know you mentioned you don't want to spend a day stuffing around but it may be a simple thing. Have you got photos?

Also Terry, does Eugene have a website? I'm keen to have my cars swirl marks detailed. Being a dark coloured car, and having the right products, I just can't seem to get rid of them.

No website afaik, but I'll post up pics here real soon of my 2nd GTR - pearl black.

2 grades of Menzerna polish were used...

> swirls and scratches gone

> Bob Barker, Daily Telegraph photoshoot

> Best Concours M Skaife Award at R34 GTR 21st

+1 what Terry said.

I bought my car off a dealer where Eugene does the detail work before sale. I was very happy with his skills and attention to detail. Sadly now I have to learn myself - so off to the SAU NSW detailing workshop organised by Terry :)

With Bayside Blue...

Before...

EugeneDetail11.jpg

EugeneDetail10.jpg

EugeneDetail5.jpg

After...

Terry-48-1.jpg

Terry-46-1.jpg

Terry-44-1.jpg

Eugene had changed his preference of Sealants from Zaino to Optima by this stage.

Hope this helps with your darker colour too Gary.

Thanks Terry. I'm thinking this product may help.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Z-PC

Those look like amazing results. I'm sorry this is off the thread topic but how do you detail the bumpers? I always just wash and shammy it, nothing else.

I use Malco Banana Wax to remove black soot from the bumpers rather than polish because it won't abrade the sealant. Eventually though, maybe once a year, I'd go back to polish > sealant > wax sequence

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...