Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

We have managed to source a person who could read the engine error codes on our V35.

We have got the engine error code of C1132. After doing some research we have found that it means:

Engine signal 3 - Based on the signal from the ECM, ABS Actuator and electric unit (control unit) judges that the fuel cut system is malfunctioning.

We have also been advised that one of our speed sensors is not reading correctly - which they think could also be causing this error code.

Not knowing any import people in Canberra - coming from SA on holidays - we are having a little difficulty working out what it all means and how to fix it. If it is just the speed sensor we are able to replace this as we have a spare but would like to be certain before we drive the car long distance.

Thanks in advance.

It is difficult to explain but we have had it confirmed that the error is definitely not from the gearbox.

Sometimes when you first start driving the car it will get stuck in first, after a few mins it will change gears by itself. But when it is stuck in first you can't even change the gear manually. The person who got the code for us said that even with the car off one of the sensors was reading 62rpm.

Do you think this could be a gearbox issue or steer me to someone in Canberra that could help? We haven't had much luck calling around or asking the ACT boys in this forum thus far. We tried the Nissan service centre and they said they can't help with an import.

I have searched through the forums and haven't been able to find anyone that has had the same issue or error code come up. We will continue our search for a reputable mechanic in Canberra or try to call our mechanic in SA to see if he can help us as to what the code may mean.

Found lots of bad remarks on the CVT box though. As i mentioned above we had it confirmed by the scanning that the gearbox is still fine and the fluid has been changed and fully serviced with the liquid gold. That was only 3000kms ago and there was no sign of wear or damage to the box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...