Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Hitting Boost Like It Should Be..

AdrianGTT

By AdrianGTT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

To be honest if it is happening around 3000-4000rpm and sounds like a rev limited.

If you find that it wont rev past that point then its 95% of the time your AFM

Try using a friends to test this.

But my friend just had this exact problem with it only reving to 3000-4000rpm and then would limiter bash.

It turns out his AFM was not plugged in

I might also add that it could be hitting boost cut.

You can adjust your boost by that black thing you are holding in the picture above.

It should have a screw or maybe the whole thing itself can turn.

Turn it anti clockwise which should turn the boost down

Repeat and test

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

AdrianGTT Collaborator

AdrianGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I looked at that Controller and it has no screw in it, but i can see the thread :/

im a bit lost to where my problem would be, can i rule anything out like AFM, pod filter?

http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y396/Adrian701/IMG_0140_zps511f9081.jpg - what about these nipples, clearly their are hoses missing off them, and that bolt i found in the pipe nipple kinda puts me off..

Where would i go from here, thank you!

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

I looked at that Controller and it has no screw in it, but i can see the thread :/

im a bit lost to where my problem would be, can i rule anything out like AFM, pod filter?

http://i1272.photobu...zps511f9081.jpg - what about these nipples, clearly their are hoses missing off them, and that bolt i found in the pipe nipple kinda puts me off..

Where would i go from here, thank you!

Only way you can rule out the AFM or Pod is by replacing them with another working item.

As I said I can pretty much be 95% sure its going to be the rev limited of a faulty AFM.

Does unplugging you AFM change anything?

AdrianGTT Collaborator

AdrianGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

unplugging the AFM will make the idle horrible, so i need to get my hands on another pink label AFM? it needs to go regardless since the top mounting flange on it is snapped.. Should i worry about the hoses? if they are in the right place or not, how can i find out

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

unplugging the AFM will make the idle horrible, so i need to get my hands on another pink label AFM? it needs to go regardless since the top mounting flange on it is snapped.. Should i worry about the hoses? if they are in the right place or not, how can i find out

Hoses are fine.

When you rev the car to 3000rpm does it jolt and splutter or does it sound like the rev limiter?

You should get an AFM anyways as you said and that will possibly fix the problem.

It it doesnt then we can move onto other things such as changing spark plugs and testing coils.

AdrianGTT Collaborator

AdrianGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i went for a drive again, and you can hear the car boost but its gutless, and sounds rough the whole car vibrates more then it should almost making a WRX sound when accelerating, the idle sound is still rough thats the best description i can give right now!

ill start looking around for an AFM, i really hope its only the AFM and nothing serious...

thanks for your input mate

DAN-33 Enthusiast

DAN-33

Posted
Posted

that black bit is a GFB boost controller, should have a allen key screw in top.

screw it all way in till it just bottoms out, then wind out 3 turns, go for drive, adjust for desired boost.

i got one running 10psi, goes fine. cheap, but so was the car and its a weekend hack.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

To be honest if it is happening around 3000-4000rpm and sounds like a rev limited.

If you find that it wont rev past that point then its 95% of the time your AFM

Try using a friends to test this.

But my friend just had this exact problem with it only reving to 3000-4000rpm and then would limiter bash.

It turns out his AFM was not plugged in

I might also add that it could be hitting boost cut.

You can adjust your boost by that black thing you are holding in the picture above.

It should have a screw or maybe the whole thing itself can turn.

Turn it anti clockwise which should turn the boost down

Repeat and test

well whats happened to the stock boost feed from the compressor cover then?? im confused why the boost is fed from that t section...

how could it be a rev limiter cut? hes got a stock ecu doesnt he??? he'd need atleast a power fc to implement a rev cut?

what boost cut are you talking about, i have a s2 and when i had stock computer with high flow there was no such thing, it just boosted up and up and up so im confused here... i think he should just connect the stock setup like it would be stock, and replace afm and connect filter again ...

If your after an afm i have one sitting on my desk here that no one would buy, if you pay for postage its yours...its mint

Edited by SliverS2
Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Silver go turn your boost up and see what the stock ECU does without nistune. It revs hard and then cuts like a massive jolt.

Or go unplug your AFM and notice how the car won't rev past 4K it's a safety feature built into the stock ECU to make sure it won't do much damage when it doesn't know the air to fuel ratios.

The aftermarket boost controller connects to a boost source most probably on the intercooler pipe and then into the actuator.

On the stock setup it also has a line going to the intake from what I remember and this is blocked using a screw or in the case of an aftermarket intake it's non existent.

No offense bro but maybe you shouldn't be giving advice if you can't spot an aftermarket boost controller setup

AdrianGTT Collaborator

AdrianGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

SilverS2, pm'd

thanks for everything guys, ive ordered a few parts, a new K&N apollo pod filter, ARK Design Boost Controller, and a Turbosmart Boost gauge, which should be here next week, i take it that ill have to return the standard setup when i take out that GFB boost controller?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

No. If you're taking out the little GFB controller to put the new one in, then just install the new one according to either its instructions or common sense (depending on which makes the most sense!). There's only 2 main connections to teh car. 1) The boost sense source (off the compressor housing or the intercooler pipe) and 2) the actuator. It's difficult to make a proper mistake.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Silver go turn your boost up and see what the stock ECU does without nistune. It revs hard and then cuts like a massive jolt.

Or go unplug your AFM and notice how the car won't rev past 4K it's a safety feature built into the stock ECU to make sure it won't do much damage when it doesn't know the air to fuel ratios.

The aftermarket boost controller connects to a boost source most probably on the intercooler pipe and then into the actuator.

On the stock setup it also has a line going to the intake from what I remember and this is blocked using a screw or in the case of an aftermarket intake it's non existent.

No offense bro but maybe you shouldn't be giving advice if you can't spot an aftermarket boost controller setup

Kasko- i used to have a stock computer and it allowed alot of boost with none the the jolting cuts, it just lost alot of power , you have a series 1 and he has a series 2, thats why i thought id comment, no offense taken. :) Im sure theres good reason to take the boost reading from the comp cover or close by, taking it from the manifold cant be right, what about the pressure drop thru the intercooler,

Edited by SliverS2
Daza33 Contributor

Daza33

Posted
Posted

While we are talking about boost controllers, I have a turbosmart boost tee connected to the plenum. It is normal for them to bleed air at idle from the little port on the side yeah? Or is this why you say connect it to a pressure source?

Also since I fitted my ATR43G3 last week I have noticed that manifold vacuum has dropped from ~24inhg to 20inhg. I made up a 4" intake and after I reinstalled noticed I had an extra vacuum line that I totally forgot where it goes. Stuck a bolt in it for now, it comes from the t piece that supplies the wastegate actuator. Anyone got any idea where that is meant to go?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...