Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, that's exactly what he's talking about. Boost controller should NEVER be hooked up the plenum.....unless they are a whizzy dizzy electro wonder box that is trying to run closed loop control....and even then I wouldn't.

And to any and all persons on here who told me that they'd never seen or heard of someone having a boost controller hooked up to the plenum....here's a perfect example ^.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Interesting, when I got the car it had the stocker boost controller in it. When I swapped it out I just used the line that was going to it, and it was coming from the plenum.

I am getting the car tuned tomorrow morning with Toshi but I'll be getting it touched up on the dyno in the new year, how would you suggest I get the boost from before the plenum? Tap a thread and stick a nipple in the cooler piping?

I've got an R33 S1 and a S2 turbo here, neither has a nipple on it however, the R32 turbo I just sold did.

The stock top intercooler pipe has a nipple which goes to a T piece, a hose comes off the T and goes to the wastegate actuator, another hose goes from the T to the stock boost solenoid, with another hose going from the solenoid to the Bov plumbback pipe.

Looks like cooz you don't have the stock cooler pipe with the nipple, the boost T is coming off the charcoal canister hose.

This seems kinda weird to me.

My charcoal canister is mounted on my cooler outlet pipe down in the front bar, its got nothing connected to it however.

My boost line is coming from the intake manifold with a t piece and 2 lines going out from that. I figure 1 was going to the boost controller before I pulled it all apart and the other must have gone to the bov plumbback pipe. Since I'm running a metal intake I dont have that pipe anymore so I'll just plug it until I get a straight joiner and get rid of it.

Well, that's exactly what he's talking about. Boost controller should NEVER be hooked up the plenum.....unless they are a whizzy dizzy electro wonder box that is trying to run closed loop control....and even then I wouldn't.

And to any and all persons on here who told me that they'd never seen or heard of someone having a boost controller hooked up to the plenum....here's a perfect example ^.

There are advantages to running the boost source from the plenum, and there are also disadvantages. It is not purely "clear cut" as to who should, and who shouldn't, until you learn to look at all of the items making up the specific system.

i went for a drive again, and you can hear the car boost but its gutless, and sounds rough the whole car vibrates more then it should almost making a WRX sound when accelerating, the idle sound is still rough thats the best description i can give right now! ill start looking around for an AFM, i really hope its only the AFM and nothing serious... thanks for your input mate

Sounds like a WRX you say?? Coilpacks is my bet. My car had the same issue between 4000 & 5000 rpm. If I held my foot flat it would sound like a WRX from 4000 to 5000 then it would be fine from 5000 to redline. It only did this under full throttle. If I held it part throttle till 5000 & then put my foot flat no issue.

Changed my coil packs & problem gone. Maybe get all your boost issues sorted first, if its still giving you issues then maybe he didnt change the coilpacks like he said.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...