Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys just wondering if anyones done it? apparently if you grind with masking tape around the edges you wont stuff the paint?

anywhere to get the triangles?

cheers

The duct is NACA duct

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_duct#mw-mf-search

I made one out of my factory steel bonnet on my old rx7 , simple to do

Make a template out of Mylar sticker film on a4 sheet print out make a few copies and confirm same dimensions

Cut one out very carefully

Stick on bonnet in location desired

Check 4 times for location

Trace arc on bonnet with exacto knife you need to cut all the way thru top layer of paint!! Except the front line on nose of the car ( if your quesy don't use knife yet use marker) try and fit between braces if possible

Check 4 times for aligned and underside issues

tape the arc edge just as close as you can to cut line a little water colour paint rubbed on a soft rag if you can't see the cut line

Once the tape is perfect , tape clean rags or towels around the bonnet and vent area the dust will fly everywhere and it's abrasive

A old blanket on the engine bay that is slightly damp to stop fires from sparks and abrasive cut off wheel dust

get Dremmel or similar with fibreglass cut off wheels ( a multitool would work too - vibrating deal but you better be accurate with it!)

Your going to cut all the lines except the front nose line !! cut with Dremel slowly using extreme care

Once cut it should flap loose but be attached on the nose part , carefully untape the flap

get a hair dryer or low heat gun

Warm the paint to about 45c on the flap

carefully and slowly bend the flap down into engine bay with fingers about 30mm

( could be sharp edges)

Now open the bonnet and warm the flap again

It should be kinda a shallow right angle not folded

now bend it with fingers from the bottom of the arc back towards the bonnet in back

The arc should now look like the NACA duct only no sides

trace the contour on some carbon fiber or glass 1 layer thick it should overhang by 5mm or so on each side

now take the bonnet off

flip over on something soft where you can work on it with epoxy stink

the two side strips will be epoxy built up a layer or two more once taped on in shape ( take into account drips etc and they can't be removed on paintwork !! )

once dry the tape can come off

the edge needs pie cut for curves and then tiger seal bonded on with care , dry a day

now cover underside with another layer of carbon or glass to hide merge of steel and carbon

Trim back of duct opening in your fav mesh to stop muppets dropping crap in your engine

the top should be damn near perfect paint wise , just a little touch up on edges and a buff out to shine back up and blend in the touch up

done

Looks perfect !! works awesome

Had mine 11yrs and it never broke loose or cracked the paint

wish I had documented it in photos dooh!!

So the finished product is steel bottom carbon or glass sides , glass sides will need black or your fav paint

I should make some out of carbon that just need cutout and bond lol

Blue painters tape

Dremel

Cut off wheels a few

Marker

Old blanket

Towels ( they can be washed and used again lol just don't let the wife catch you haha)

carbon weave of choice or glass

Paint of needed or black matte

mesh

exacto knife or luffa knife a good one you can push on without it falling to bits

epoxy

Tiger seal

Something to set bonnet on

A friend to help pull it off !!

a bucket load of faith and time don't rush !!

it's simple but must use care and measure 4 times and step back and look at it before cutting

If you cut braces you could be defected !!

When yanking tape off pull towards cut not away or it could rip paint off !!

if you need help with arc let me know

Mine was 30mm wide in front , about 150mm open wide

About 30mm tall opening

A flexible arc tool helps ( from drafting store or stationary shop) draw one side then fold paper to match exact arc on other side

Edited by Carbon 34

Can be done, ask terry, he did it to his black one.

Not sure if you can get away without painting.

I was weighing it up but waited for a genuine vsii one to pop up instead, and I got very lucky.

Anthony has a good memory :)

R34GTR194.jpg

It cost $45 + GST + Delivery > $62 from kenloweracing.com.au > air scoops > 3" NACA Duct

R34GTR204.jpg

It fits under the hole that's been cut into the bonnet > stuck there with epoxy so that paint won't crack due to expansion/contraction via heat/cold.

Hiya,

I just made sure the duct was positioned in the same position as on the V-Spec II & didn't worry about it until - that's right - someone asked the same Q as you.

Then I cut a neat fitting piece of Perspex to fit the slot on wet days - but I hardly ever had to use it.

Terry how does it go with water ingestion?

i assume it'll throw water onto the rear turbo?

Mine was in for 11 years in a snow zone and water was never issue , at speed the heat is so great and air flow speed so high into the inlet it vaporises even in down pours

and mine didn't run any mesh either

even parked the angle didn't allow much in

Terry think your way is a tiny bit easier haha

You can buy vents to drop in with carbon lip showing ( mostly r35 style) but look on USA sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
×
×
  • Create New...