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Probably.

Low temp thermostats are not a good idea. I do not know why they were invented or people think that they are a good idea. An engine is supposed to operate at a certain coolant temperature, otherwise the heat losses out to the cooling system increase (if you run it colder) and fuel consumption goes up. You also get more thermal stress between the hot side and cold side of parts of the engine. You certainly wouldn't change to a colder thermostat without tuning the ECU to stop it from (possibly) winding in some cold coolant enrichment.

You have to face facts. A low temp thermostat only changes one thing. That one thing is the point at which it starts opening. Once it is fully open, it is fully open the same as a hotter thermostat is. So if you have trouble keeping an engine cool (say when thrashing it), then the cooler thermostat will be wide open, same as the normal one would. They simply don't play a part in the heat balance of the engine once it is actually hot. If the cooling system is otherwise unable to cope with the heat produced by the engine, then a cooler thermostat can't help.

The only thing it does do is give you a little more grace between cruising it (cold, at 70°C) and when it gets too hot. If it will stay at, say, 95°C with a cooler thermostat, it should do so with a normal one too.

KeepIng in mind these cars were designed and built to be driven in Japan and not the hot climate of north QLD that is why I went with the low temp thermostat and am very happy I did.

Why? The only real difference is your heater will start working a bit quicker.

Cleaning out the radiator probably played a large part in dropping the temps. The thermostat openin earlier helps keeps temps down as the coolant starts circulating through the system earlier. But yes once it is all hot and all things being equal I can not see the thermostat changing anything.

Probably.

Low temp thermostats are not a good idea. I do not know why they were invented or people think that they are a good idea. An engine is supposed to operate at a certain coolant temperature, otherwise the heat losses out to the cooling system increase (if you run it colder) and fuel consumption goes up. You also get more thermal stress between the hot side and cold side of parts of the engine. You certainly wouldn't change to a colder thermostat without tuning the ECU to stop it from (possibly) winding in some cold coolant enrichment.

You have to face facts. A low temp thermostat only changes one thing. That one thing is the point at which it starts opening. Once it is fully open, it is fully open the same as a hotter thermostat is. So if you have trouble keeping an engine cool (say when thrashing it), then the cooler thermostat will be wide open, same as the normal one would. They simply don't play a part in the heat balance of the engine once it is actually hot. If the cooling system is otherwise unable to cope with the heat produced by the engine, then a cooler thermostat can't help.

The only thing it does do is give you a little more grace between cruising it (cold, at 70°C) and when it gets too hot. If it will stay at, say, 95°C with a cooler thermostat, it should do so with a normal one too.

True if you assume you are running the std clutch fan. If you are runner running electric thermometer fans with a smart controller or Ecu then it means the the temps run in the sweet range of 75-80 with less effort/strain on electrics and thermometer fans

True if you assume you are running the std clutch fan. If you are runner running electric thermometer fans with a smart controller or Ecu then it means the the temps run in the sweet range of 75-80 with less effort/strain on electrics and thermometer fans

I'm not even sure if that's true. But whether it is or not, it doesn't realy have anything to do with the thermostat, does it?

Motul mocool

http://item.mobilewe...Id=221050536902

What do you guys think of the stuff?

i use redline Water Wetter. its good stuff, temp gauge has never gone above half on the haltech temp reads 80 even after multiple power runs on the dyno!

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/product-information.asp#waterwetter

This is where and how I usually do undercar cores. These are hollinger and rear diff coolers but could be used as fuel coolers as well. Simple duct that limits the chances or rock damage, Dont ever put a cooler behind a wheel obviously. post-20349-0-91966300-1357858761_thumb.jpg post-20349-0-96058100-1357858763_thumb.jpg Those coolers have probably seen more of a beating than any GTR ive ever seen and they havent really taken any massive rock strikes, they do accumulate debris from the circuit and require constant cleaning out with an air blower to keep tire rubber and dust out of the cores.

where can I buy little cores like those? I'm about to do this know..

or maybe, do you sell a kit with cooler, shroud, mounts etc?? ;) theres an idea

Im not hell bent on a PWR no. But as far as i know they are one of only few if not the only place to get a direct fit to siit an R31.

Im pretty sure an R33 unit will fit but it sits lower and needs new brackets made up. The brackets are easy but the sitting lower part is a concern.

If i do end up with a thermo fan it will be a spal only.

Does anyone know of other very good rads to suit an R31? Obviously a cross flow twin or triple pass would be a good option. Im fairly sure the PWR units are vertical single pass.

It shouldn't cost you any more than $60-$100 to have the mounts modified by a reasonable fabricator. I had a Race Radiators (they are in Melb) item for a R33 modded to fit my GTS-R back 7-8 years ago and it wasn't really an issue, quick/easy.

So buy the Racepace one, have modified, pocket the difference and spend on other things :)

Stock starts opening at 75deg so either your gauge is wrong, your thermo is stuck open or you have a low temp one

I tried two brand new standard Nissan R33 ones in my GTS-R years ago, and on a cool day (under 15) it wouldn't go above 72, hovered around 70 usually :)

Two of them couldn't possibly be stuck (or the 3rd which it started with). So some certainly can run under 75 - either that or the sensor was out :merli:

I tried two brand new standard Nissan R33 ones in my GTS-R years ago, and on a cool day (under 15) it wouldn't go above 72, hovered around 70 usually :)

Two of them couldn't possibly be stuck (or the 3rd which it started with). So some certainly can run under 75 - either that or the sensor was out :merli:

God knows, but every reference I can find (Nismo, Sard, Billion etc) all claim that factory ones start to open at 75.

Either way my new one should be cooler than it is now when cruising, which will start the engine cooler and take longer to reach "hot" temperature when at the track. As I'm not going to be doing endurance races, it suits my application perfectly :)

Edited by SimonR32

It shouldn't cost you any more than $60-$100 to have the mounts modified by a reasonable fabricator. I had a Race Radiators (they are in Melb) item for a R33 modded to fit my GTS-R back 7-8 years ago and it wasn't really an issue, quick/easy.

So buy the Racepace one, have modified, pocket the difference and spend on other things :)

Yeah i did find a post of yours about you fitting a racepace unit. But i was sure they didn't make them for the R31 so i wondered if you had fitted an R33 unit.

So Racepace is comparable to other high end radiators?

What is yours? Cross flow or vertical flow? twin or triple core? Are you using the clutch fan with i assume R33 shroud on your GTS-R? What size cores do they offer?

The other question i guess is do i keep the clutch fan with a smaller core or go with a bigger core, ditch the clutch fan and shroud and go for a spal 16"er

Yep Racepace were using PWR, but then sourced their own which is just as good as a significantly lower price point. Performance is the same (email them for more info: [email protected])

The 31 had a Race Radiators (Melb mob). Was a R33 unit as i purchased off a mate - so not really talking apples/apples here as it was 7-8 years ago and i don't own the GTS-R anymore so I'd only be guessing what core.

I can tell you it had the R33 shroud and clutch fan, and it was cross flow (just cant remember the cores). The shroud was slightly trimmed but nothing major really. 31 item might well fit as well with the same trimming.

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