Rb Engine Track Work Temp.

[SS8_Gohan]

that sorta brings up sometime i wanted to ask....

do those cooling panels/diversion plates make much of a difference? thinking bout getting one of those CF ones across the front, between the headlight

[ARTZ]

that sorta brings up sometime i wanted to ask....

do those cooling panels/diversion plates make much of a difference? thinking bout getting one of those CF ones across the front, between the headlight

I dunno if they make a difference but they look really good...i almost bought one too...

[JustinP]

I would also like for someone to persuade me that I need one of these

I dunno if they make a difference but they look really good...i almost bought one too...

[Risking]

Cooling panels do have merit.

They are however fairly useless without some sort of side plating to keep the air directed at the radiator.

[jnrevo]

Ok. I did a couple of test on my car today and just wanna see what you guys think.

Air temp is a out 25-28deg c.

With bonnet close and air con working, both thermo and clutch fan running. My water temp got to 92deg c in about 35mins. oil temp got to 78deg c. Air con stop blowing cold air after the water temp got to 85deg c.

Now with the air con turn off. Both thermo and clutch fan running. Car drop down to 84-85deg c. Oil go down to about 73deg c.

Car was on idle the hole time.

Air con seem to create a lot of heat. Is this because it an old car?

[ARTZ]

throw AC in the bin ...problem solved

[KiwiRS4T]

Air cond is a heat pump - transfers heat from the cabin to the radiator in front of your main radiator.

[White GTS-T]

With an ambient temperature of 25 degrees Celsius, and as a general rule of thumb, for the condenser to convert the superheated high pressure vapour from the compressor into a subcooled high pressure liquid at the condenser outlet, the temperature at the condenser inlet will be twice that of the ambient temperature. So, effectively, you create an ~ 50 degree heat sink in front of your radiator. As heat soak occurs at idle, the pressures and temperatures go up.

[jnrevo]

throw AC in the bin ...problem solved

A bit late. I just spent a lot of money to put it back into the car and have it running again. Taking it out seem like a waste of money.

[jnrevo]

With an ambient temperature of 25 degrees Celsius, and as a general rule of thumb, for the condenser to convert the superheated high pressure vapour from the compressor into a subcooled high pressure liquid at the condenser outlet, the temperature at the condenser inlet will be twice that of the ambient temperature. So, effectively, you create an ~ 50 degree heat sink in front of your radiator. As heat soak occurs at idle, the pressures and temperatures go up.

I understand all this. I just want to know if this is a normal thing for r32 gtr. Temp seem to be a little high. It also pointless having aircon that doesn't work when it hot.

Is there a solution for this?

[DVS JEZ]

Keep the aircon. But dont sit there idling for 30minutes if u dont have too. If the car was moving there should be better airflow to the radiator compared to idling with a thermo running.

[STATUS]

better radiator... it cant shed the extra heat from the condenser.

[Dobz]

Has anyone ever considered that a big part of the cooling issues for RB's could be due to the terrible design of the water pump impellers?

They're cavitation prone things and rely on underdrive pulleys to slow them down for adequate operation at high rpm. Compared to a lot of water pumps these days the design is ancient.

[R31Nismoid]

Has anyone ever considered that a big part of the cooling issues for RB's could be due to the terrible design of the water pump impellers?

They're cavitation prone things and rely on underdrive pulleys to slow them down for adequate operation at high rpm. Compared to a lot of water pumps these days the design is ancient.

Ancient maybe, but put a decent tri-pass core on it and combine with a good tune - temps seem to be quite ok.

Would a fan on the oil cooler help? My oil cooler sit on the right side in front of the front driver wheel. There is a hole of 30mmx140mm for air flow.

Would it help if I put the oil cooler at the front and buy a larger oil cooler?

Fan won't help but a larger cooler and ducting - 100% will make a difference. Not only ducting in, but also ensuring behind the cooler the air has somewhere to go where as well. Enlarging the intake can also aid.

You've still made no mention of your radiator type/size yet either?

The PWR ones are a good choice, albeit it quite expensive. Racepace went out and have one made now which is similar to the PWR item, but you just need to order in advance

[GTR_JOEY]

A few things for track use

1. Keep the standard fan,

2. Shroud wont make much difference on a track but does on the street sittting in traffic

3. Use foam/panels all around your radiator and intercooler to direct air straight through them, like Ash said it makes a big difference, especially when your on the track for extended periods of time.

4. E85 will keep your track temps down so run it when you can

5. As recommended by my tuner im running valvoline racing formula 50 (25W 60) for track as he beleives anything less and the oil is too thin for RBs (and who cares about 5-10 kw anyway)

6. If your going to upgrade your radiator for god sake dont buy a shit/cheap ebay one (ive made that mistake)

Ash i just ordered a RacePace triple bypass radiator, they have them in stock ready to go

...Racepace use to work with PWR to make their radiators i beleive but have moved away from them for their own reasons and are having them made to their own design.

heaps cheaper then the PWR ones as well, and these radiators are TRACK PROVEN with data to back it up

[ARTZ]

A few things for track use

1. Keep the standard fan,

2. Shroud wont make much difference on a track but does on the street sittting in traffic

3. Use foam/panels all around your radiator and intercooler to direct air straight through them, like Ash said it makes a big difference, especially when your on the track for extended periods of time.

4. E85 will keep your track temps down so run it when you can

5. As recommended by my tuner im running valvoline racing formula 50 (25W 60) for track as he beleives anything less and the oil is too thin for RBs (and who cares about 5-10 kw anyway)

6. If your going to upgrade your radiator for god sake dont buy a shit/cheap ebay one (ive made that mistake)

Ash i just ordered a RacePace triple bypass radiator, they have them in stock ready to go

...Racepace use to work with PWR to make their radiators i beleive but have moved away from them for their own reasons and are having them made to their own design.

heaps cheaper then the PWR ones as well, and these radiators are TRACK PROVEN with data to back it up

I agree with everything you said there, i have standard fan and no shroud, also have some basic ducting to coolers and run E85, plus my AC is ripped out which no doubt promotes some better air flow and I have no issues

but...

I have cheap ebay radiator and it works fine sandwiched about an inch away from my cheap ebay intercooler which also works well...total cost 400$

Each car is different though...whats good for this goose isn't always good for the gander...

.

[GTR_JOEY]

I agree with everything you said there, i have standard fan and no shroud, also have some basic ducting to coolers and run E85, plus my AC is ripped out which no doubt promotes some better air flow and I have no issues

but...

I have cheap ebay radiator and it works fine sandwiched about an inch away from my cheap ebay intercooler which also works well...total cost 400$

Each car is different though...whats good for this goose isn't always good for the gander...

.

Yes the ebay radiators do work to an extent, its a bit of a gamble is what im saying

The main problems with mine was

1. the neck leaks, ive tired to TIG weld it up but the problems still there

2. the factory shroud "sort of fits"

3. the car still hit over 100 degrees when sitting in heavy traffic even when retaining the factory shroud

The fact that you have ripped out your AC condensor would probably help air flow to,

[D.I.Y. Mik]

I have a 32 with rb20det and always had heat problems. I knew cos i got oil and water temp gauges after it overheated a couple of times.

I got an ebay radiator, no difference.

I got an oil cooler, small difference.

I removed the aircon, no difference.

I got a GTR front bar, huge difference. Airflow is everything.

If it was done in reverse order id see what difference there was between each change.

The thermos are there cos i cant fit the factory fan cos of a cheap intercooler pipng kit.

So now ill experiment with corflute and duct tape to make some deflectors/vents, as after reading this thread im sure its the way to go.

A cheap radiator and intercooler should be fine with enough airflow, right?

Shes a bit rough, many things made from scrap metal with hand tools.

[ARTZ]

bingo

Im just gunna have a bit of a rant here but it seems to be people are always trying to force air in all sorts of directions it doesn't want to go and wondering why things cook...sure there is ways around it with more efficient / bigger / expensive coolers etc...but I think if you can give air a clear path of flow half your problems are solved...

just look at your basic V-mount setup which alot of racers run..air is trapped forced through the cooler and has a place to exit, this promotes flow..block that flow and you create a heat pocket...the other big benefit with this of course is much shorter cooler piping again promoting easy flow..

I think there is alot of cars out there that could benefit greatly from good changes to their frontal flow...without the need for super expensive coolers..

of course packaging this into a daily driven car is not always possible...

anyway as stated earlier Its seems the header tank is the way to go...will be my next budget mod anyway ...

[gtr jet]

Awesome thread guys. I'm about to take my 32 to the track for the 1st time in the next month or 2. Most of the cooling system is standard except for a cooling pro radiator.

At the moment the only gauges I have are the factory ones and I don't particularly trust them.

Just curious as to what gauges most of you guys use to keep an eye on things on the track?

Also what would be the oil/water temperature limit you would run your car to before deciding to pit?