Rb Engine Track Work Temp.

[kitto]

Ok i emailed both Racepace and Race Radiators.

Racepace can supply a 42mm triple pass (N Flow) radiator that supports the shroud and clutch fan. They only do them for the R32 - R34. So an R33 item must be used with custom mounting. This is $550.

They don't really offer anything bigger as they came to the conclusion a 42mm rad is adequate on high powered circuit cars.

Racepace's opinion is that the factory clutch fan / shroud setup is better than any thermo fan even on a track vehicle.

Race radiators offer a 42mm single row, 55mm 2 row crossflow and a 65mm 2 row cross flow. They do not supply a bolt in for the R31.

Their recommendation is that the 42mm with the factory clutch fan and shroud is only suitable for street dutes. For race use they use the 55mm and 65mm coupled with a thermo fan without shrouds. 55mm unit is $750 and the 65mm unit is $850.

So a bit of price difference and recommendation difference as well

[GTR_JOEY]

Dan if RacePace say that their 42mm radiator is adequite for track duties... i would take their word on it...

the amount of GTR's that get tracked coming out of Racepace is rediculous

sounds to me as if someone is trying to sella bigger more expensive radiator

[kitto]

Thanks Joe.

You run a racepace radiator as well yeah?

Well to be honest, i'm happy to spend the money on a quality radiator for XX size and features that i need to effectively control the water temperature.

The thermo fan vs clutch fan debate is kind of annoying. I think i'll stick with the clutch fan way unless i simply do not have enough room to accommodate it anymore. And with anything thicker than a 42mm rad, i wont be able to. 42mm is going to be tight as it is and i must confirm if it will still fit.

[GTR_JOEY]

Yea mate im running a Racepace radiator now, after talking to a few people about the track duties that some Racepace cars have had i was convinced.

Chris also informed me that the Clutch fan is the way to go...he also went on to tell me that they have tested both clutch and thermo fans back to back...

the results were the clutch fan lost about 5kw to run..though after switching to the thermos the heat soak went on to lose even more power then the clutch fan becasue it just wasnt cooling efficently.

looks good i reckon.. all polished up

[kitto]

Nice nice.

Have you really given yours a hammering at the track for extended periods?

Which fan are you using? The older style straight bladed or the new style angle bladed more efficient fan?

Shroud all mounted up sweet?

[GTR_JOEY]

I havent had a chance to get my Radiator a good thrashing yet, it will be getting one soon though..

i have the angled blades on my fan.

shroud fits up nice and neat, thought the bottom of mine is a bit floppy as the shroud was damaged so i hacked at it

[abr33]

Back a bit I was talking about how not running heat exchanger left me with super cool oil- like winter at 100km/h i was getting to 50 degrees, and summer flat out getting to 70 in heavy traffic.

I now have exchanger hooked up and with 35-40 degree weather, water sits on 78-85 and oil is always very close, down to 70-75 on freeway.

Im hoping this wont give me the shits on the track if oil gets too hot. Just FYI

[Piggaz]

^^ were you running an oil cooler without a thermostat?

[abr33]

Nope, HEL cooler with thermostat

[GTSBoy]

I'd suspect the thermostat of not closing off enough. Should at least be able to keep the oil as hot as the coolant (unless big sump with wings and fins and shit).

[abr33]

I'd suspect the thermostat of not closing off enough. Should at least be able to keep the oil as hot as the coolant (unless big sump with wings and fins and shit).

It does keep very hot now its got water back to exchanger. was always cold without exchanger. I run 7.5L of oil but no fins etc. Thermostat seems to work, plus its only new

[GTSBoy]

It does keep very hot now its got water back to exchanger. was always cold without exchanger. I run 7.5L of oil but no fins etc. Thermostat seems to work, plus its only new

The test for that would be to take the water off the HX again and connect the oil lines together at the core (bypassing the core). If the thermostat IS working, then you should get the same sorts of temps you were getting before. If it's passing oil when it shouldn't, then you'd get a nice increase.

[abr33]

Well the hel kit doesnt totally seal of the cooler, its an open bypass, so oil will still very slowly run in cooler, when thermostat gets to 70 degrees, it seals bypass off making all oil pass through the cooler... And when I say it ran very cold around the 50 mark, but thats in winter here at -5 to 5 degrees at night.. This winter will tell if theres a big change...