Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make/Model: Nissan Skyline R32 GTS4 Sedan

Year: 1993

Kilometers: 132xxx

Transmission type: 5 Speed Manual

Engine: RB20DET GTS4

Colour: White

Modifications: see below

Roadworthy Certificate: No.

Registered: Till September 2013

Accident History: Non that I know of.

Asking Price: 7.5k

Location: Melb, Sunbury

Contact Details: pm me, 0413703227

Other Comments: I bought this from a SAU member so ive updated his list

ENGINE

- 3 inch exhaust, high flow cat, no resonators, straight through rear muffler

- 3 inch dump and front pipe

- Blitz return flow fmic

- apexi intake pipe, apexi pod

- turbotech boost controller @ 10 psi

- remapped ecu

- Greddy catch can

- 42mm alloy radiator

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

- Tein HA Height & Damper Adjustable Coilovers all round

- King springs on the front, whiteline springs rear (low but conservative) (SPARE)

- Bendix advanced pads all round

- Old School Nismo Strut Brace

Exterior

- R33 GTST Wheels

- HID Kit 6000k Low Beam

- GTR Amber Indicators

- Respray done to remove all paint fade and patches

INTERIOR

- Stock GTR Steering Wheel

- Speco gauges (boost, water temp, charge rate)

- near new shifter and handbrake boots.

STEREO

- Alpine Headunit

- Unknown Front Speakers

- Polk audio rear speakers

- Dynamat applied to front doors, parcel shelf and boot lid.

- Clarion 4ch Amp

- New battery/ Less than 10,000km old

SERVICING

- Oil change every 5000 inc oil filter

- gearbox oil replaced

- transfer and diff oils replaced

- brake and clutch fluid changed

- coolant flushed

- all power steering hoses replaced and fluid changed

- clutch master cylinder replaced

- rocker cover gaskets replaced

- Coil packs replaced with brand new genuine

- ignition harness replaced inc module

- g sensor replaced

- window tint

Major 100xxx Service done @ 129,xxx. Gates Timing Belt, Genuine Nissan Water pump, Thermostat , Cam Seals Coolant Flush and replaced all other belts with Gates Belts, Spark Plugs

Spares include King Springs and Shocks , ECU , Dmax Drift Spoiler, GTR Copy Front Bar , Stock Airbox & Decat, Standard Indicator Lights

RWC complete in Jan

Reg til 08/09/2013

Selling with Reg but no RWC. Buyer to obtain themselves. I didn't require much and I did most of the suspension that was required for RWC

Looking at Selling ASAP as need it for Deposit shortly. Offers Considered but come see the car first, maintained very well and ive washed it every week

$7,500

20121202_120710-1.jpg

20121216_134853.jpg

20121028_120417.jpg

20120901_144036.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416321-vic-r32-gts4-sedan/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...