Stage Ii Bolt-On's - Am I In The Clearing?

[roonVR]

Hey guys,

I've bitten the bullet and decided to put my hard earn coin to use and make my R33 GTS-T go. I've collected around 6K to pour into my car which I think should be plenty of money to get everything sorted. My goal is to hit the 260-270 RWKW mark. I also don't want to advertise the fact that my car is worked so everything will be done as stealth as possible.

Current mods on car:

- BC racing coilovers

- Exedy HD cushion button clutch (<10000KM old)

- bellmouth dump pipe with catco high-flow and HKS silent Hi-power catback

- T-piece bleeder valve

- HKS mushroom pod filter

I've been doing a bit of research on this site, comparing other people's mods and going off by recommendations and advice and have come up with the following "2-buy" parts:

- Garrett GT3076R-12 low-mount kit with 0.70 A/R, internally gated

- Sard 550 CC injectors with collars

- Z32 AFM

- Bosch 040 fuel pump

- Nismo fuel pressure regulator

- Ebay Ching-Chong China cooler with piping kit

All parts listed come to a price total of around 4.5K, give or take couple of hundred dollars if i shop around. I've got a Z32 ECU with a NISTUNE board in it so on the tuning side of things, all is good. From the parts that I've listed, does everything sound A-OK? Any recommendations or any other additional parts I should be adding? I'd like to make sure I'm going in the right direction before I place a big order. Any money left over from the tune will be going straight on a 1.5 way diff and HICAS lock bar. I'll also be spraying the FMIC matte black for that stealth look.

Cheers,

[HR32GTS 4DOOR]

For the turbo selection I'd say have a look over the Hypergear thread, cheaper turbo more "bolt on" some nice results shown and their SS series is made for an RB25, I'm no expert but I hear that the internal gate housings used on the gt30 are a bit rubbish.

Fuel pressure regulator also not really needed.

[roonVR]

For the turbo selection I'd say have a look over the Hypergear thread, cheaper turbo more "bolt on" some nice results shown and their SS series is made for an RB25, I'm no expert but I hear that the internal gate housings used on the gt30 are a bit rubbish.

Fuel pressure regulator also not really needed.

Cheers for your input. I'm keeping my options open at the moment and will be giving hypergear a call and see what they can offer me. Handy too because they're only around the corner from me.

[Hanaldo]

+1 for checking out Hypergear. And for scrapping the fuel regulator, stock is fine. If anything maybe go for some bigger injectors in case you increase your power goal in the future. Also, ditch that HKS pod filter. The filter element in them is rubbish. Would run a $20 pod from Supercrap before I used a HKS filter.

With the turbo, the 3076's with Nissan 6-bolt housings have pretty average results from what I've seen, so if you do end up going for the Garrett then I'd advise comparing the results of the bolt-on kits vs the 4-bolt rear housings. Which would require a new dump pipe if you went down that route.

[GTScotT]

+1 for hypergear.

also say ditch the FPR and keep stock.

HG SS2, 3" metal intake, eBay cooler kit, injectors and a plug in map based ecu.

hypergear can bundle a turbo and ecu at a great price. Buy 850cc injectors at least. You will have an awesome car.

GL.

[rondofj]

How bout a Cooling Pro intercooler kit from Just Jap, they would be bit better than the average Ching Chong cooler I think..And yes ditch that FPR, not needed

[Hanaldo]

How bout a Cooling Pro intercooler kit from Just Jap, they would be bit better than the average Ching Chong cooler I think.

Much of a muchness, Cooling Pro is Chinese.

That said, I would still go through Just Jap or someone like that rather than eBay, customer support is usually better if you do run into problems.

Edited December 28, 2012 by Hanaldo

[roonVR]

Looks like I'll be going through HyperGear for my turbo setup, only seems right like I said, I'll be giving the mob a call to help me choose the right turbo for my setup. With the cooling pro FMIC being a return flow on just-jap, will it still be sufficient for my setup as it uses the stock intercooler piping?

+1 for hypergear.

also say ditch the FPR and keep stock.

HG SS2, 3" metal intake, eBay cooler kit, injectors and a plug in map based ecu.

hypergear can bundle a turbo and ecu at a great price. Buy 850cc injectors at least. You will have an awesome car.

GL.

I already have a Z32 with NISTUNE so an ECU will no be needed When it comes to think of it, looks like I'll get 850 CC injectors just in case I want more power down the road.

[Touge Kyousou]

+1 on ditching the FPR and getting larger injectors too. Once it's all installed you'll need a retune and that may be a good time to move to e85 as well if you can get easy access to it. More power so you can reach your target power goal easier and give your engine some safety from knocking.

+1 on a jjr cooler too, great guys to deal with and the stuff is at least decent quality. Also, have stealth cooler kits, and you can even get a return flow for extra stealth but you do lose a bit of airflow with the it compared to the traditional setup.

Could i suggest ditching the mbc and getting a good ebc as well ? Better boost control and you can get gain for more turbo response.

Oh, you might wanna budget some money for tires too, you'll need some s or r compounds to hold that power, unless of course you just want to fry tires and slide everywhere

[Touge Kyousou]

P.s. you might need new coilpacks too when you up the boost, if you're still on factory coilpacks (you didn't mention).

GL!

[roonVR]

Thanks for all your input guys, you've been of great help. From what I've gathered here from this thread it looks like ill be getting on to bigger injectors and ditching the nismo FPR. I'm not really fussed with what intercooler to go for as long as it provides good flow for now and the future when i chase for bigger power. I never really thought about an ebc, how are they more beneficial compared to the traditional bleeder valve? I've heard a lot of mixed opinions about ebc's, so I'm a bit skeptical. With the coilpacks, I bought a set of OEM brand new <5000 km ago, so if they don't hold up on bigger boost, a set of splitfires will come

[Hanaldo]

I wouldn't bother with an EBC on an internally gated turbo. When I had my old Hypergear, the ebc was essentially just there to increase my street cred and make noises, it didn't really do anything other than that. External gate is a very different story, but with an internal gate just get the actuator as close to the boost level that you want to run and run it.

You sound like you're about set, but also budget for a service before you get a tune. Always do oil/filter change when installing a turbo, fuel filter when installing new injectors, and spark plugs wouldn't be a bad idea either (making sure they are the correct gap etc). As well as anything else that looks like it might need replacing, belts etc. Speaking of injectors, I personally always get injectors flow tested before installation whether brand new or second hand. A mate of mine didn't think it necessary and ended up hydrolocking his motor from one of the Nismo 550's spraying like a fire hydrant. Up to you, but it's cheap piece of mind.

[Touge Kyousou]

A good EBC will easily outperform 95% of mbc's out there. Only a few mbc's have as good turbo response as an ebc.

Depending on your tuning approach, you can get basic ebc that just have several boost profiles and gain setting (holds the wastegate shut) for best possible turbo response, all the way up to fancy ones that have settings overkill and can do funky stuff like gear/speed/rpm/throttle based boost for traction etc along with logging of data and intake air temp adjustment.

Just make sure you get a good ebc and you prolly won't look back (there's plenty of threads on sau detailing good ones).

For a jjr stealth cooler kit, check this out http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19944&cat=339&page=1 (just spray the clamps black as well after installing).

Supposedly the oem coilpacks are just as good as splitfires when they are brand new ?? So you should be good there then.

Oh forgot to say as well, if you don't have any current brake upgrades, you'll definitely want to set aside some money for that as well.

Hope this helps dude.

[Touge Kyousou]

OP, Hanaldo saying adjusting the wastegate actuator as close as possible also works , you are generally limited to running one boost settings like this though, but less hassles, less failure points and electronics and less exposed flashy items in cabin and engine bay.

Here's a great thread on ebc's btw, if you wanted to read a bit more

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/229928-dyno-graphs-comparing-pfc-boost-controll-vs-blitz-idiii/page__hl__apexi%20pfc%20boost%20controller%20vs

[roonVR]

Awesome, all this info is what I need. I'll have a look into some ebc's. I like the thought of having a LO and HI boost setting. What kind of brakes are recommended without breaking the bank? All these things are starting to add up quite quickly. Will a exedy HDCB clutch hold 260-270 RWKW without disintegrating?

Cheers,

[Hanaldo]

Contact gslrallysport on here and ask him about his Remsa pads. DBA 4000 series rotors or RDA rotors are both very good. The clutch you will have to see, some people love em lots of people hate em.

[Touge Kyousou]

It does add up quick unfortunately, especially if you build it right the first time.. but generally doing it right the first time ends up being cheapest in the long run anyways.

It seriously comes down to what your intended purpose for the car is, e.g. if you just want the power for dragstrip action, don't worry about the brakes, tires, ebc etc but if you want it for circuit then brakes and tires are almost a must with that power level along.

Anyways for brakes, what Hanaldo said again.. generally rda is a bit cheaper than dba so 4 slotted rdas to suit gtst along with some good pads would be a great bang for buck upgrade. Your tires may need attentioning too =/

The HDCB clutch will hold that power level fine

[t_revz]

Contact gslrallysport on here and ask him about his Q1RM pads. DBA 4000 series rotors or RDA rotors are both very good.

Fyp

[roonVR]

I want my car to be great all-round with handling, speed and braking. I don't want to take any shortcuts. If my car's getting power, it also needs stopping power, so the RDA rotors front and rear with some remsa pads seem to be fine. I already have BC coilovers so the handling is already there. Might consider front strut brace as well but we'll see how far my funds send me. I'm also going to attempt to install all this gear in my car by myself with the aid of a close friend who loves doing this kind of stuff. I reckon it'll be a great learning curve for me and also an rewarding experience which will make me enjoy my car even more after everything's in place.

Just one more question, Once all the gear is intact, will I be able to drive to the tuner shop with the stock ECU in place?

[GTSBoy]

Just one more question, Once all the gear is intact, will I be able to drive to the tuner shop with the stock ECU in place?

Possible, but not real likely. Big injectors, + different AFM = possible large change in required injection time (per squirt). If the car will start and run relatively cleanly, and as long as the drive is not too long, then yes. If it is hard to start or unhappy to run with a few revs and a little load, then no.

My suggestion? Towing is less expensive than breaking shit you didn't need to break. And it doesn't take long to swap in injectors and an AFM, so you can always leave that sort of stuff to be fitted at the tuner's.