Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU,

Wasn't sure where I should post this, so I thought I'd post this here as I have a N/A.

Anyways, I just needed some thoughts on how to go about this.

Do you guys reckon it is possible to basically swap out from motor to diff? so in short from N/A AWD, to Turbo RWD.

I understand that most sensible people would just buy a GTT but the car has very strong sentimental meaning, so reselling is not an option unfortunately.

Thanks guys

  • 3 weeks later...

i would use a turbo diff as that one i guess is built for n/a power plus sharing the load with a front diff. so it cant be very strong. you may need a different front cross member and hub assemblies to. just be extra weight to leave them. p.s. i was the same until someone offered cash and a lot. im glad i didnt do the conversion :)

  • 10 months later...

You should either get a C34 Stagea RB25DET engine or turbo the current engine. I'm doing the turbo the current engine route.

Just follow the "How to turbo your N/a slow slug POS skyline" thread. It has a break down of all the parts and costs.

If you hunt around you can get all the parts for under $1000 and bolt it on ur self. You will need to get a tune as the N/a tune is not suited for turbo.

Posting here because of Google...

R34 GT4 coupe to turbo and keeping AWD.

How much does something like that cost? parts and labour

I love the r34 GTT but I hunger for AWD grip

Fell free to buy my GT4 :)

If it's so easy why isn't everyone doing it?

Because no one can be bothered unless they really want to & most R34 GT/-t s are RWD to start with.

There have been a few R33 GTS4s converted to AWD RB25DET using Stagea gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...