Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gt-Four To Gtt Conversion Question

NiHaoMiaoMiao

By NiHaoMiaoMiao,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

NiHaoMiaoMiao Contributor

NiHaoMiaoMiao

Posted
Posted

Hey SAU,

Wasn't sure where I should post this, so I thought I'd post this here as I have a N/A.

Anyways, I just needed some thoughts on how to go about this.

Do you guys reckon it is possible to basically swap out from motor to diff? so in short from N/A AWD, to Turbo RWD.

I understand that most sensible people would just buy a GTT but the car has very strong sentimental meaning, so reselling is not an option unfortunately.

Thanks guys

  • 3 weeks later...
Jayden.K Collaborator

Jayden.K

Posted
Posted

i would use a turbo diff as that one i guess is built for n/a power plus sharing the load with a front diff. so it cant be very strong. you may need a different front cross member and hub assemblies to. just be extra weight to leave them. p.s. i was the same until someone offered cash and a lot. im glad i didnt do the conversion :)

  • 10 months later...
Pr0x1mity Proficient

Pr0x1mity

Posted
Posted

You should either get a C34 Stagea RB25DET engine or turbo the current engine. I'm doing the turbo the current engine route.

Just follow the "How to turbo your N/a slow slug POS skyline" thread. It has a break down of all the parts and costs.

If you hunt around you can get all the parts for under $1000 and bolt it on ur self. You will need to get a tune as the N/a tune is not suited for turbo.

Posting here because of Google...

R34 GT4 coupe to turbo and keeping AWD.

How much does something like that cost? parts and labour

I love the r34 GTT but I hunger for AWD grip

Fell free to buy my GT4 :)

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

If it's so easy why isn't everyone doing it?

Because no one can be bothered unless they really want to & most R34 GT/-t s are RWD to start with.

There have been a few R33 GTS4s converted to AWD RB25DET using Stagea gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...