Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So for the last few months i've been filling up at around 300km. I have an Injen CAI and no other engine mods.

I just filled up then and my needle was just above empty (i do realise that the needle is a little incorrect)

I filled up the tank today at 287KM and my car took 41L of fuel, i know the tank holds 80L but i have never driven the car to completely empty, in fact i don't think i've even done over 400km to the tank.. I feel so stupid because i've been filling up way before necessary, with the driving i do i should theoretically be getting close to 500KM to a tank.

Facepalm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416439-whats-your-average-km-to-a-tank/
Share on other sites

I usually get around 600km before filling which is usually just after the fuel light comes on. I usually manage 11.5L/100km in winter. And about 12.0L/100km in summer (heavy AC use in summer). Which gives me a theoretical range of 660-700km per tank.

All light city driving.

6MT sedan. With shell 95RON fuel.

Edited by sonicii

I usually fill at 1/4 left by which point there's 400km on the clock. Was avg 12l/100km. No ac, start stop traffic though. Stock as a rock.

After changing the diff fluid, this seems to be getting better. Now looks like closer to 10l/100km but we've been doing a lot of motorway Kim's during this season.

Mines stock and I got 730km driving from Sydney. Around town I get around 550 ish

That's impressive!

aha I don't even trust the needle anymore, i just watch how many km's i've done and where i've been driving/how i've been driving then fill up when i deem approprite. But this time i've going to let it run to 500 then refill and see how close to empty i am then.

I have only done 1 highway trip in mine. Townsville - Yeppoon and return.

1 tank each way, about 740km. Low fuel light had just come on when I arrived in Yeppoon. After filling in Yeppoon, i still had 1/4 of a tank left when arriving in Townsville.

From memory, I averaged about 7.8L/100km overall.

After reflashing with the Uprev software, my first full fill up on 98 till now was 790kms. Not even kidding. Will be interesting to see if this can happen again... :S

Did you drive to Sydney?

Cruise control 95kmh behind a road train?

James sometimes an automatic with cruise control can actually be worse on fuel than a manual because of the constant gear changes. At least i know for a fact this is the case for the mid 2000 model Prado's.

After reflashing with the Uprev software, my first full fill up on 98 till now was 790kms. Not even kidding. Will be interesting to see if this can happen again... :S

Did you drive to Sydney?

Good question.. under want conditions did you get 790km from 1 tank? if it was highway KM, then this is about normal.. if it was city driving then it is very impressive.

Good question.. under want conditions did you get 790km from 1 tank? if it was highway KM, then this is about normal.. if it was city driving then it is very impressive.

I'm guessing that must be highway km unless he's driving a little 1.5L v4. Max i've gotten out of mine for highway km is about 700 and that's with a little bit of enthusiastic driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...