Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And then sell the 3 as a package Brett at Shannon's Auctions? Even if the set were someone else's I'd love to witness that auction! Worthwhile marketing to Messrs Joel, Leno, Fox and Ashwood ay?

I must be dreamin' lol

Shoosh!

My aim is to enjoy driving them albeit not too far.

Then when my wife and I do a dream holiday to South America I will probably sell an N1. We spent heaps of $$ already to see Europe 8 yrs ago. I love these cars, but they're not an obsession.

These cars need to be driven and not cosseted. My 2c.

Totally agree, enjoy it and drive it hard (not thrashing)...no point preserving it for the next owner

Ok Guys, but in particular a question for Terry.........

It's well documented that there were 228 N1's built and 1303 V-Spec 2's built.

Terry's car is a N1 V-Spec 2........

So, does that mean it's one of the 228 built but it's not added to the V-Spec 2 totals?

If so, there were slightly more V-Specs and V-Spec 2's built than the totals suggest.

Does anyone know what the model breakdown of the 228 cars are?

In other words, Std N1's, N1 V-Specs and N1 V-Spec 2's?

Cheers,

Bob.

Great question. My assumption is that the N1s were not considered as v specs. They were the base cars that the N1s were built off. In the same way that v specs are built off stock gtrs. Would be nice to get a comprehensive answer though.

Terry,

My suggestion would be to email Nissan Japan, advise them of your recent purchase and ask them if they could confirm how many N1 V-Spec 2's were built. If they answer that question, I would then go back to them and ask how many V-Specs were built.

Their appropriate email address is - [email protected]

If you get that answer just deduct those two totals off the 228 figure and we have the mystery solved.

My experiences with this kind of thing is if you ask too many questions in one go they get uncomfortable and avoid the answer.

If you take it one step at a time your more likely to get a result.

Cheers,

Bob.

Thank you Bob (and earlier on, Lucas).

I shall go ahead and do this. Since my wife can read and write kanji do you think I may procure a better result first up via that route? Thoughts - or have you found them helpful before in English?

Thank you Bob (and earlier on, Lucas).

I shall go ahead and do this. Since my wife can read and write kanji do you think I may procure a better result first up via that route? Thoughts - or have you found them helpful before in English?

Hi Terry,

I've never had a need to contact them but the boys on the Canadian forum speak very highly of their customer service in English.

That said, given your fortunate circumstances, I would ask in Japanese.

Make sure you include photos of both cars and tell them how you love their products etc etc......

The more complimentary you are towards them, the more likely they are to help you.

Cheers...... Bob.

Great question. My assumption is that the N1s were not considered as v specs. They were the base cars that the N1s were built off. In the same way that v specs are built off stock gtrs. Would be nice to get a comprehensive answer though.

This has always been my understanding too.

Hi Terry,

I've never had a need to contact them but the boys on the Canadian forum speak very highly of their customer service in English.

That said, given your fortunate circumstances, I would ask in Japanese.

Make sure you include photos of both cars and tell them how you love their products etc etc......

The more complimentary you are towards them, the more likely they are to help you.

Cheers...... Bob.

Thanks. Perhaps I should also offer the boss a free game of golf? DekA on the Exec is organising a SAU golf event :)

Terry, just send an English email to that [email protected] email address. You'll likely get a response from Chikako Taguchi. He tends to be the person that responds. Check the pdf letter attached to my first post here:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415962-r32-gt-r-v-spec-differences-and-specs-nissan-japans-advice-to-me/

Definitely buy and R33 Ni now.... and then sell them all to me when I win the lottery ;)

"I like your choice of odds mister!"

Quote from Charles Bronson in The Magnificent Seven.

Thanks for the lead on how to address my email :)

  • 1 month later...

anybody see the immaculate grade 5A 94 vpecII going through the auctions today? Had something like 30,000km's all standard! was going to put a bid in but was told that it would probably reach the 40's which is over my budget.

On the white grade 5A Vspec II, 31,000km, nice car indeed, sold for 3600000 yen car cost, with some shaken left, you would have needed around $50,000 landed and complied + registration costs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...