Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah but it doesn't stop people from putting them on, mine had a fake 33 Gtr badge on it when I bought it and I took it off and fitted a genuine 32 one

  • U need the genuine GTR badge on the rear, that looks like the larger r33 badge

Well spotted but I don't think it's a 33 badge. The ADM is actually slightly bigger.

Could someone else with a V-Spec 1 or 2 please post up what your badge looks like?

Thanks,

Bob.

post-78207-0-20685300-1397352509_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-10307400-1397352520_thumb.jpg

Yep....... Mine must be fake then as yours is the same as my red ADM.

Oh well another one for the list.

Approx. A$71.50 - here - http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bnr32/3891-rb26dett/body/990/84815MF/

If anyone needs one, make sure you get the correct colour code for your car, mines KLO.

Marco..... Yours wont be listed as I've only searched for Series 2 cars built after August 1991.

Your Jet Silver is slightly different to my Spark Silver.

Cheers,

Bob.

Why are the ADMs jet silver and JDMs spark silver? Your ADM is a different code to the red JDM right?

No....... Jet Silver Metallic was discontinued at the end of Series 1 cars in August 1991.Paint Code KG1

The shade changed slightly lighter in Spark Silver (some actually call it Sparkling Silver) which started with Series 2 cars in August 1991. Paint Code KL0

The list is posted here - http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207531

The ADM and JDM Red is the same colour with the same colour code. The only thing that changed slightly was the name.

In Japan it was sometimes know as either Red Wine Metallic or Red Pearl Metallic. In Australia, the Dealer bulletin clearly lists is simply as Red Pearl Metallic. Paint Code AH3.

I hope that clears things up.

Bob.

Makes sense Bob, thanks.

Mine is July 91 and my brother also has a silver GTR (1 of 6 Scuderia edition) which was a low volume import and sold here as a new car...his is an 89 but his paint is slightly lighter than mine when it should be slightly darker, as per your above post

Makes sense Bob, thanks.

Mine is July 91 and my brother also has a silver GTR (1 of 6 Scuderia edition) which was a low volume import and sold here as a new car...his is an 89 but his paint is slightly lighter than mine when it should be slightly darker, as per your above post

Marco....... Your brothers GT-R and your ADM should be the same colour.

It wasn't until AFTER August 1991 the lighter Spark Silver was introduced.

What does the paint code say on the firewall?

Bob.

Well spotted but I don't think it's a 33 badge. The ADM is actually slightly bigger.

Could someone else with a V-Spec 1 or 2 please post up what your badge looks like?

post-78207-0-20685300-1397352509.jpg

Thanks,

Bob.

That's a R34 GTR badge.

Went for a very early drive this morning and FINALLY got some reasonable pics....

Cheers,

Bob.

Bob nice car mate.

Is your sliver car a genuine V-spec II?

Also, I have yet to confirm this however, I am under the impression that R32 V-spec model never actually came with a V-spec sticker is this accurate?

Yet to find out mate but his silver is definitely lighter and brighter when parked next to each other. Probably best way to describe is mine is more a browny silver and his is more bluey silver.

Bob nice car mate.

Is your sliver car a genuine V-spec II?

Also, I have yet to confirm this however, I am under the impression that R32 V-spec model never actually came with a V-spec sticker is this accurate?

Yes.. Genuine V-Spec 11.

I checked out the numbers well before handing over the cash. It has been painted so no surprise the badge is wrong.

BTW.... V-Spec cars did have boot lid decals from the factory.

Cheers.. Bob.

Bob and Wruckie - gorgeous looking cars! Wruckie, don't change it - it's ace just as it is. Keep it the same spec as it was originally. It'll hold value better.

Is anyone able to help out gtr judd?

Hey guys I'm tryin to decipher my mate's chassis plate. Can you please help me on the end part.

attachicon.gifDSC_0258.jpg

So towards the end

X is Gtr

F is 5 speed

S is turbo intercooled

L is fog lamps (are these operated of the cluster?)

No number so V Spec 1

M is rear wiper less

Z is N1?

G what is this?

No worries, I would dig up my info but I'm busy getting ready for a knee reconstruction tomorrow so I'm a bit stuck for time.

I believe that Bob has a couple of decoder links. I reckon he might have provided them earlier in this thread. Gave a quick flick back through the pages.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...