Nitto Oil Pump Users

[mickr33couple]

Hi all,

I'm wanting to know from the people that have try or use a nitto pump, did you just use the oil pump how it came with both springs still in it? If so what sort of psi are you seeing on cold start, warm idle, and 7000rpm?

If you have used a nitto oil pump but have removed 1 spring? How is the psi on cold start, warm idle, and 7000rpm

My engine builder told me the 120psi is too much plus with my engine having the piston squirters blocked there will be more pressure in there, so he has removed 1 spring plus put 1 shim in the other

Let me know how you have gone about your nitto pump

Cheers

[DVS JEZ]

Why did he remove the squirters?

[Risking]

Sack your engine builder and find a new one that has half a brain......

[mickr33couple]

No idea why the squirters were removed, and can't really sack him as the engine is built already

Any advise on why should sack him?

The oil squirters are to cool the bottom of the pistons correct? But think he said using forged pistons wouldn't need the squirters

[89CAL]

There already there. Why the hell would you take them out. Cooling is good

Relief in the oil pump relieves the pressure so it decides the Max pressure

I don't know the ideal pressure to run but 120 sounds to high

[NYTSKY]

Ill guess there was no relief in the piston skirts so instead of spacing the squirters he just removed them.

[mickr33couple]

The pistons skirts had cut outs on the bottom of the pistons already but coz the old motor destroyed the oil squirters (different engine builder) this engine builder has desided to grub screw them out, this will give more oil pressure I believe,

Yes engine builder said that the 120 psi is way to high and that's why he removed one giving it 75psi plus the 1 shim

[Risking]

Do it properly and pull the engine apart and have them put back in.

Do a google search they are there for a decent reason.

[abr33]

Iv told you a few times already on different posts, get it set correctly by someone with the correct setup jig for the job (I used lewis engines) he charged 40 bucks. Seriously thats nothing... Get it done. Pressure depends on your clearances and oil type and viscosity, restrictors etc. I run redline 15w/50, 2.5 though crank clearance, tomei pump (irrelevant to pump type-pressure is pressure when set.) I have mine set to about 70 psi hot for the setup. It doesnt matter what pump you use, capacity doesnt mean anything once relief valve is open.

Get it done right - especially as changing pressure means engine out if not a tomei.

And squirters blocked off? that sounds crazy man, get second hand ones or new, they are a good idea to keep in for sure.

[GTRNUR]

Oil pressure is determined by oil viscosity (hot and cold), and your bearing clearences, combined with your pump flow rate which is RPM dependant.

Removing the squirters should have very little effect on your max oil pressure when you use a high volume pump. A standard pump maybe...

The squirters have a valve in them that only opens above certain oil pressures, so when its hot the squirters remain closed at lower engine speeds when oil pressure is lower.

At higher RPM, the squirters open and spray oil, however at higher RPM your pressure is being controlled by the bypass valve in the pump. Not how big your bearing clearences are and if your squirters are open and flowing oil.

Oil shot at the underside of the piston crown helps pull heat out of the piston and maintains a more even piston temperature. It also helps lubricate and cool the cylinder walls. An alloy piston expands faster than the iron block, so unless temps are controlled and kept even the in operation cylinder-piston clearences will vary wildly depending on how hard you are driving the engine.

Once up to temperature, your piston to cylinder wall clearences will close to 1-1.5 thou. They are generally around 3 thou cold with most pistons, however some special alloy type pistons and coatings run closer clearences as they are able to better manage the heat and thermal expansion.

Engines without squirters rely on oil flung from the big end rod journal to do this, but in a highly strung RB I would venture to say it probably won't be enough. Virtualy all of these engines will be non-turbo engines, and do not have to contend with the heat generated from high output forced induction operation. Im not saying it can't be done, but proper steps must be taken with coatings and clearences to make it work and be reliable.

[mickr33couple]

Iv told you a few times already on different posts, get it set correctly by someone with the correct setup jig for the job (I used lewis engines) he charged 40 bucks. Seriously thats nothing... Get it done. Pressure depends on your clearances and oil type and viscosity, restrictors etc. I run redline 15w/50, 2.5 though crank clearance, tomei pump (irrelevant to pump type-pressure is pressure when set.) I have mine set to about 70 psi hot for the setup. It doesnt matter what pump you use, capacity doesnt mean anything once relief valve is open.

Get it done right - especially as changing pressure means engine out if not a tomei.

And squirters blocked off? that sounds crazy man, get second hand ones or new, they are a good idea to keep in for sure.

Yes I know to get the oil pressure set right but been a nitto oil pump its only a matter of removing a spring and shiming the other....

Nitto recommend not to remove a spring but been a 120psi unit everyone says its way too much...

Ill find out what the clearance are, but if it helps its got acl race series bearings

[GTRNUR]

Ill find out what the clearance are, but if it helps its got acl race series bearings

Bearing brand makes no difference. Only your builder will know what the oil clearences are on your crank main and rod journals. Hopefully he actually measured it and can tell you.

[Risking]

Nitto designed and built the oil pump, recommended that you leave the spring in yet you ask questions a million times over about removing it.

There is heaps of nitto pumps getting around, if everyone removed the spring im sure nitto would have revised the design and removed the spring themselves before sale.......

Take the engine to someone else,

Get it pulled down and the squirters fixed. Have the bearing tolerances checked properly and probably fixed, refit the spring nitto recommended you don't remove, fit a larger sump and away you go.

[mickr33couple]

Bearing brand makes no difference. Only your builder will know what the oil clearences are on your crank main and rod journals. Hopefully he actually measured it and can tell you.

I will deff be in contact with the engine builder to get measurements on the clearance

[mickr33couple]

Nitto designed and built the oil pump, recommended that you leave the spring in yet you ask questions a million times over about removing it.

There is heaps of nitto pumps getting around, if everyone removed the spring im sure nitto would have revised the design and removed the spring themselves before sale.......

Take the engine to someone else,

Get it pulled down and the squirters fixed. Have the bearing tolerances checked properly and probably fixed, refit the spring nitto recommended you don't remove, fit a larger sump and away you go.

No worrys, I've asked the question a million times because tuners and engine builders on say have all said 120psi is way too much psi, nitto recommend not to remove it, but a company that help to develop the pump trial and error have told me guys using rb25det remove 1 spring,

So as you can see I get one answer then get another answer from a different source that has help develop the pumps...

[mickr33couple]

Iv told you a few times already on different posts, get it set correctly by someone with the correct setup jig for the job (I used lewis engines) he charged 40 bucks. Seriously thats nothing... Get it done. Pressure depends on your clearances and oil type and viscosity, restrictors etc. I run redline 15w/50, 2.5 though crank clearance, tomei pump (irrelevant to pump type-pressure is pressure when set.) I have mine set to about 70 psi hot for the setup. It doesnt matter what pump you use, capacity doesnt mean anything once relief valve is open.

Get it done right - especially as changing pressure means engine out if not a tomei.

And squirters blocked off? that sounds crazy man, get second hand ones or new, they are a good idea to keep in for sure.

Nitto website says if remove 1 spring psi is 75psi therefore that is already higher then your tomei pump at 70psi, this is just going off if my clearances were the same as yours and same oil restritors etc, plus I have 1 shim in aswell, why wouldn't this work? It be giving me around 90psi... This is the question I would like answered? Yes nitto designed and built the pump with 120psi but some engine builders will tell you that is way too much pressure, therefore why wouldn't the way my engine builder has done my pump work?

Seeing people with tomei pump adjust there's to 70psi not 120psi like a nitto pump?

These are just questions guys I want my motor to be sweet so answers are great not just send the motor else where, I would like to know your reasons in to not removing 1 spring out of a nitto pump compared to having two, and not just coz it's the way nitto built it I already know this,

Thanks for any help guys

[89CAL]

Stop assuming the same clearances and restrictor size as someone else will net the same pressure. The relief sets the maximum pressure

As for removing the spring, if you want to lower your pressure i don't see how it wouldn't work but i also wonder why nitto are advising not to do it. May cause other issues

[abr33]

Nitto website says if remove 1 spring psi is 75psi therefore that is already higher then your tomei pump at 70psi, this is just going off if my clearances were the same as yours and same oil restritors etc, plus I have 1 shim in aswell, why wouldn't this work? It be giving me around 90psi... This is the question I would like answered? Yes nitto designed and built the pump with 120psi but some engine builders will tell you that is way too much pressure, therefore why wouldn't the way my engine builder has done my pump work?

Seeing people with tomei pump adjust there's to 70psi not 120psi like a nitto pump?

These are just questions guys I want my motor to be sweet so answers are great not just send the motor else where, I would like to know your reasons in to not removing 1 spring out of a nitto pump compared to having two, and not just coz it's the way nitto built it I already know this,

Thanks for any help guys

First, find out clearances, decide on good oil - I use redline, very expensive but excellent quality ester synthetic. And get pressure to suit. All tuners and builders saying 120 is too much is spot on. Its way high for normal setups. Pushing 1000hp, your gonna want that kind of pressure... sure, too little is worse than too much, but too much gets erosive on everything. Plus not helping oil pool in head

[Sinista32]

I run a Nitto High volume oil pump but do not have the knowledge the guys above do.

I left it to CRD and seriously have no idea. Now reading this I'll research.

Although I would have thought leave "as is" and use a great quality oil used such as Motul/Redline

Also why wouldn't you trust the folk who do the R+D and sell these particularly Nitto and/or any other Major brand that certify and warranty these ?

If it aint broke and you have no idea what your doing why doubt the Pro's ?

[mickr33couple]

I run a Nitto High volume oil pump but do not have the knowledge the guys above do.

I left it to CRD and seriously have no idea. Now reading this I'll research.

Although I would have thought leave "as is" and use a great quality oil used such as Motul/Redline

Also why wouldn't you trust the folk who do the R+D and sell these particularly Nitto and/or any other Major brand that certify and warranty these ?

If it aint broke and you have no idea what your doing why doubt the Pro's ?

Thanks for your info, but CRD are the ones that told me some rb25 users remove 1 spring....but as it has been stated 120psi is too much pressure hence why tomei pumps are adjusted to around 70psi yes of course it comes down to your clearances oils etc etc,

Also I'm not doubting nittos or CRD experience and knowledge as they have been helpful in most cases, but some answers to questions interfere with each other and don't make sense

For run in oil I remember engine builder saying HPR30 I think it was, (ill double check) and after run it think it was 15/50 ill double check everything when he reopens