Jump to content
SAU Community

*new* S13 Sr20Det High Mount Tdo6Sl2-20G Turbo Kit And More! *new*

guestauto180
 Share

Recommended Posts

guestauto180 Contributor

guestauto180

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys

Im selling up my parts I had planned to go onto my 180SX. Its a complete bolt on high mount turbo kit. All the parts needed are in this kit so its ready to bolt on and tune.

All parts are new and never used, some have been bolted to my engine but then removed without being started as Im selling everything including the car.

Kit consist of the following,

Kinugwaw TDO6SL2-20G T3 8cm V band exh housing external gate with complete braided line fitting kit and all nuts, bolts, studs and gaskets needed.

Tial 38mm MVS wastegate in black.

Kelway high mount T3 steam pipe manifold

Kelway s/steel dump/front pipe with removable wastegate return to convert it to a screamer when the need arises

Kelway 3 inch aluminium turbo intake pipe with NEW silicon joiner

Kelway 2 inch aluminium turbo outlet pipe with NEW silicon joiner

New oil drain and cam cover hoses wrapped in NEW Aeroflow silicon heat sleeve

Aeroflow NEW fittings to adapt the water lines to the turbo so they fit neater than the supplied Kinugawa gear

So its a complete kit with the only thing you need to add to is a manifold gasket if you dont already have the re-usable S15 style gasket.

This complete kit cost me $2700.

Price $2350.

Bosch ID 1000cc top feed injectors with loom plugs. set of x 4. NEW never used.

Price $460

Aeroflow billet top feed fuel rail kit for S13 SR

Comes with NEW Aeroflow fuel fittings to connect it all up.

Price $180

Turbosmart FPR 800 adjustable fuel pressure reg with Turbosmart fuel pressure gauge and Aeroflow fitting to connect it all up. All parts NEW.

Price $220

Send me a PM if your keen on any parts.

ALL LOW BALL OFFERS WILL BE IGNORED

Cheers.

post-36405-0-87515200-1357023374_thumb.jpg

post-36405-0-15802900-1357023382_thumb.jpg

post-36405-0-17768300-1357023391_thumb.jpg

post-36405-0-86714000-1357023401_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr · Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...