Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey not sure if this is a topic but I desperately need help.

Ill try to keep it short but basically have a '94 R33 coupe series 1 with a sunroof :) only had her for a few months, bought from a lebanese guy....this is both me nd my partners dream car...so we cleaned her up, black bonnet, sound system etc. he did not look after her at all. We had a good run then problem after problem started.

PROBLEM #

1. Rocket cover leaking - fixed it

2. Hicas light only comes on once the car has been started then turned off for a short period of time. If let for roughly an hour it stays off (still not fixed)

3. Clutch started to squeak nd a tiny plastic bit just fell to the floor inside the car one day (still squeaking but clutch works perfect althought a bit sticky)

4. Driving nicely nd heard this noise like say a dragon flys wings right near ur ear. Tow trucked it home, pulled it all apart harmonica balancer is a bit thrashed out nd the 2 keys that hold it it place nd the crank pulley pretty much weren't there. Aparentl a ceased aircon system can cause it? Replaced those, put her all back together (first didn't even want to start timing woz out, lined all the notches up nd she started) now took her for a run bit sluggish but she still drove, boost leak? Fixed all of them (who ever came up with the 6piece intercooler pipe system should be shot!) cool she ran better nd better with every tweak. Got home turned her off nd there woz with weird bubbling noise coming from the back of the motor my partner thought it woz bottom end but we never bled the radiator system so I thought mayb airbubles. But the tapping/knocking noise is still their i figured it woz the harmonica balancer against the timing case since it looks a bit wonky wen she idles but as the revs pick up the straightens out, it's not a whole heap but just enough for u to notice. Good old YouTube nd partner reckons the noise is definitely death knock. I'm hoping its no or ill cry problem after problem can anyone shed some light coz I'm lost nd I really do not want to get rid of her or spend 3-4k on a rebuild! :'(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416557-really-need-help/
Share on other sites

So you had it properly flow tested and made sure its up to the task by a professional?

Because they wear out and their flow rate slows down meaning they run the car but under full load they don't supply enough fuel, which leans the engine out and the bearings get hammered and you get a death knock

So you had it properly flow tested and made sure its up to the task by a professional?

Because they wear out and their flow rate slows down meaning they run the car but under full load they don't supply enough fuel, which leans the engine out and the bearings get hammered and you get a death knock

well no, but im 100% sure its fine coz she guzzles fuel fine (badly needs a tune) lucky to get 250 from a full tank....took her to the mechanics this morning and its coming from the timing cover near the bottom not the actualy engine which just confuses me that bit more

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...