Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It seems like the V is pretty tail happy... oversteers a lot.. ! I installed Stillen Sway bars over the Christmas period.. took out on a drive.. and it has improved a lot .. less slip.. Front - Soft, Rear - Medium...

However.. I'm still not happy or confident..

I always feel like the tail is going to slip driving in full auto going into fast corners (55km/h)..... Engaging the manual mode however brings back the traction.... but.. I shouldn't have to do that..

Setup Front 245/30 R20, Rear 275/30 R20 - ATR Achilles Sport tyres.. still has plenty of tread..

What do you guys think?

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What year is your car? I'm guessing it's the open diff. Since you have an auto that's what you've got i do beleive, someone correct me if i'm wrong.

The 6mt car with the "sports kit" 18's and brembos have a VLSD which is better for tracking/cornering and also stops you from doing the 1 pegger burnouts. That's briefly what i know about diffs, definitely not a strong point so if any of that is incorrect someone chime in that knows exactly how diffs work.

Edited by Seano350GT

Ching chong spec tyres is what I think.

Either get some decent rubber under you (and yes it will cost a fortune because of your choice of wheels) OR

Go to front hard, and rear soft on the swaybars, to promote more understeer bias.

I have found mine a bit tail happy in the wet.. in the dry it is fine as long as you don't go silly with the loud pedal..

tightening up the rear suspension with sway bars will only make it worse if you don't also do the front by at least as much. I am guessing the stillen sway bars may be adjustable? If so, maybe try making the front 'medium' and the rear 'soft', and see how it goes.

Hmm.. you got me thinking Seano350GT .. its a 03 V35 with orange stitching on the steering wheel.. which according to research, must be the sports pack. Which also means I should have the VLSD.. ?

Sounds like the consensus boils down to Tyres.. I bought the car a year and a bit ago.. and it came with those 20" .. I must say it looks good .. but I'm after handling..

The Stillens are adjustable.. that was why I set to Front Soft and Rear Medium cut down oversteer .. but you guys are suggesting increasing understeer at the same time ..?

I find that the chassis handles pretty well, for the most part I have run 245 on the front and 285 on the back with 19" rims using Federal tyres which whilst not the most expensive seem to hold the road just as well as the Kumo KU19's I had on before. Kicking the tail out for me is predictable although I noticed its a lot easier to do with 245 compliance rubber on the back combined with the transgo shift kit

Back to suspension school Sonny :P

swaybars-

soft front, hard rear= oversteer bias

Hard front, soft rear = understeer bias.

Try it out - see if you prefer / feel more confident with a different bar setting. If your after handling, bye bye 20's. Back to 18s with some quality rubber, and sort out the handling with a proper suspension set up.

Hmm.. you got me thinking Seano350GT .. its a 03 V35 with orange stitching on the steering wheel.. which according to research, must be the sports pack. Which also means I should have the VLSD.. ?

Sounds like the consensus boils down to Tyres.. I bought the car a year and a bit ago.. and it came with those 20" .. I must say it looks good .. but I'm after handling..

The Stillens are adjustable.. that was why I set to Front Soft and Rear Medium cut down oversteer .. but you guys are suggesting increasing understeer at the same time ..?

It's a relative increase; it's not like the car will understeer more than it did before.

What Alex is referring to is changing the BALANCE to more of an understeer than oversteer bias.

Using a heavy rear ARB will increase low speed understeer markedly.

If you are chasing handling at all; you are wasting your time with 20's on this car.

You have no sidewall flex to absorb impact or surface change and the tyre just bashes around going all over the place.

Go back to a 19" and get some sidewall. Also, use a decent quality tyre; just because they're wide, doesn't automatically make them grippy.

It wouldn't be a bad thing to get some Super Pro compression rod bushes (Strut Rod bushes) with additional caster; this will drastically reduce the inherent understeer once you start pushing hard.

This will allow you to use your adjustable ARB's effectively. :thumbsup:

Back to suspension school Sonny :P

swaybars-

soft front, hard rear= oversteer bias

Hard front, soft rear = understeer bias.

Try it out - see if you prefer / feel more confident with a different bar setting. If your after handling, bye bye 20's. Back to 18s with some quality rubber, and sort out the handling with a proper suspension set up.

You speak the truth my good man. ;)

Thanks Guys... Looks like I'm a noob at this. :unsure: Only starting to learn about performance/handling .. Hypothetical situation ... Same Good Tyres all round.. which one better? 20" has more surface contact = more traction Vs more bounce/compression with 19" sidewall... ?

the internal diamiter of the rim has no impact on the contact area area if the correct profile tyre is on

But the smaller profile (ala 25 profile on a R20) will have a adverse affect as it is less compliant so the suspension has to do more work to keep contact... In no situation when your running a tinyt profile will a 20 have more traction than a 19.. Why do you think drag cars have huge profile tyres. But too high and there is adverse lateral handling effects due to sidewall flex. Its about a blalance, But for a V chassis in no way is a 20in tyre with 25 profile going to be better than the same in a 19 with more sidewall on a V chassis IMO

Idealy im guessing a 18in wheel with a 45 profile (or 40 is its like a 265 to keep a similar rolling diamiter as the profile is a percentage of the width) would be optimal for a V35

Edited by (Locky)

Thanks Locky. I forgot about the correctly profiled tyres doesn't change the contact area.

Can anyone shed some light on VLSD? I'm trying to figure out if my auto 2003 V has it. Other than the orange stitching on the steering wheel, I have no other way to tell visually.

I read with VLSD, both rears would spin? W/o VLSD .. only the right will?

Jack up rear of car under diff. Car in neutral, handbrake off (do it somewhere the car won't move obviously).

Turn a wheel (by hand), if the other rear spins the opposite way = open diff. Spins the same way when your friend puts some pressure slowing down the wheel, VLSD.

At this stage it doesn't matter too much. There are a lot of people out there with good handling cars that don't have VLSDs.

Thanks Guys... Looks like I'm a noob at this. :unsure: Only starting to learn about performance/handling .. Hypothetical situation ... Same Good Tyres all round.. which one better? 20" has more surface contact = more traction Vs more bounce/compression with 19" sidewall... ?

Only tyre pressure and weight on the wheel impact contact patch area.. tyre width, diameter or profile have no impact on contact patch size.

Thanks Guys.. only way to find out if my V has VLSD is to jack it up. Looks like I should get better tyres. I'm so used to 17"s with Goodyear F1 with my old Maxima/Subarus.. and the V's handling is shocking .. I initially thought the ATRs was decent .. not great or good.. but decent..

If I persist with 20"s.. what tyres suggestions? Falken Fk452s? Kumko Ku13 or others?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...