Jump to content
SAU Community

I Think My Avc-R Is Fu@ked

GTR_JOEY

By GTR_JOEY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

Ok I've done a bit of a search and couldn't find anything that really helps me out here.

I have an AVC boost controller, it stopped working about 6 weeks ago and I traced it back to a dodgy Earth..in this case I could still see the lights on behind the buttons on the digital display so I knew something simple was up..

Easy fix

Now I have an issue where I'm getting absolutely nothing from my digital display. My theory is that when sitting in the sun the display got so hot that it fried some of the electronics in the display. (It was actually really hot to touch :/)

Once it cooled down I pulled it apart but cannot find anything visibly wrong with the circuit boards/diodes etc...

Does any one have any other ideas what could be wrong? Possibly another display I could borrow to determine the fault

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416607-i-think-my-avc-r-is-fuked/
Share on other sites
GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea I think that's what happened Nick, ill pull it apart again today though i dunno if ill find anything obviouse as I've stared at it for an hour already..

I just need to find one I can borrow to be sure that's what my issue is..

I don't think you can buy just the display itself either

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

righto, ive managed to get a hold of a multi meter and test the unit for its power and its two earths... everthing is good to go in that reguard so there is something going on inside the circuit board thats stopping the screen from working....

as far as i can see all the soldering looks good so im going to go on with testing the components on the board...

i dont 100% know what im doing so if i post some pics up hopefully someone will come to the party and tell me what i need to do :D

thanks

i understand this is probably in the wrong section, if it needs to be moved so be it

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

What is that white crap on IC4? Is it just some glue/sealant that's in the wrong place, or has something gooshed out? Not that an IC should goosh out like that.

And, at the other end of the PCB, where the 2 big solder pads are, is the circuit board all discoloured from excessive heat? It looks brown. If it it, then that would be an electrical heatign problem, not simply too much cabin heat.

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmm just took another look, there's a few spots on the PCB where the solder is a bit brown and discoloured, I thought it may have been possible that it turned brown from the initial soldering ... Maybe??

Any ideas on what individual component is what and how to check it with a multi meter??

If I can confirm that it's completely stuffed ill buy another, but I'd rather figure out what's wrong and try fix it

Also that large blue area on the board is just glare from when I took the photo

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

You've got a few big capacitors (5 to be exact) that are unlikely to be damaged. If they were electrolytic I'd be recommending replacing them all with new equivalents (unless you happened to have an ESR tester, which I'm willing to bet you don't). Regardless, they're probably fine. The remainder of visible components are surface mount capacitors and various other passive SMD devices....and a bunch of semiconductors. ICs, chips and transistors of a couple of sorts. Most of these are untestable, and the value of testing the rest is unknown. You could try asking Apexi if they have a service centre I suppose. Unlikely though.

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmm I'm guessing it would be highly in likely that apexi would provide sick a service.. And if they did imagine the cost! Lol

It's sounding like a lost cause isn't it :/... Arg, will see if I can find a second hand kit and just use the display

Cheers for the replys guys

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also after some more research I've found in rare cases that after excessive time spent in the heat that some avc-rs have stopped working but have started to work again once they have cooled down.. Unfortunately that hasn't happened in this case.

Some one also found that some of the components have melted off the PCB but have once again worked once re soldered on

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR EV? The leaf of the Godzilla's!

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • RB2533
      UniClutch

      By RB2533 · Posted

      Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • Duncan
      Rv37 400r questions

      By Duncan · Posted

      My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
    • elir32
      Rv37 400r questions

      By elir32 · Posted

      Was that Australia Delivered Duncan? Does it have siren etc?   I used to have remote start on an old 32 two decades ago, it was a cool feature. I used to wake up early in winter for work. Start it and by the time i was out the door a few minutes later the engine was warmed up and the heaters had the car toasty. It was great.    I don’t mine the ambience lighting.  I drive a western star and it has footwell lights and ambient lighting and it’s great! From the pics of seen of them installed in a skyline I think it’s a nice touch 
×
×
  • Create New...