Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i need to find a place to setup my avcr (blue screen) as its a 21st bday present and i want to put it in sraight away.

i just need a place that will do it well and reasonably priced,

ive tried a couple of places and their in the $350 dollar region am i guessing right in saying they are seeing me coming or is that about how much it costs.

any feedback would be greatfull.

cheers

Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41694-avcr-who-can-i-get-to-installtune/
Share on other sites

i can tune them :P

i've had the same avcr boost controller in my wrx and my skyline and i've had zero problems with them! well, i tell a small lie :D after my powerfc tuner who specialises in apexi products fine tuned it in my skyline its all running sweeeet :D

actually, i'll take photos of my settings for you and you can do it yourself. dont be shy. just dont dial in 1.5bar boost.... ;)

I got my AVCR installed in my GTR, increased the boost to 1 bar and got the fuel mixtures tuned on the dyno for about $350.00 + GST. Theres no other way to go about it cheaper. If you dont use a dyno to get the tune right, you'll blow yr pistons cuz of the extra loads and leaner mixtures. The tuners who own dynos have got us by the balls. But you'll find that once the pain of the installation cost goes away, the AVCR is perfect - totally accurate adjustable boost and heaps of preferences to choose from. Looks unreal as well.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I had mine installed by C & V at Waterloo Sydney. Toook them about 3 hours to install. Also, try Unique Autosports in Castle Hill. Ive spoken to John Penlington there (owner) and he has laptop Power FC software he uses to tune the mixtures and play around with the standard AFM's to get them to take more load before hitting their maximum voltage etc. I found the service of Unique better and more friendly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
×
×
  • Create New...