Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone now someone who is missing a Black 180sx reg S843AVM....

It is parked outside my place and looks like it has been tampered with and dumped...

SAPOL said it has not been reported stolen but from everything I can see it looks like it has been.

need a lil help guys, was driving the gtr just cruising at 60 changed gears nice n slow n I felt a funny twitch in the clutch pedal and then next time I pushed the clutch is was a lot heavier all of sudden.

pulled over check the fluid levels all looks ok, then I noticed when I got back in it every time I pushed the clutch it was making a noise like gas escaping. This was in the car not under the bonnet.

so I hear this is possibly a vacuum leak in the booster? anyone got any other ideas?

anyways I drove it home and it felt fine aside from the weird noise and being heavier clutch than normal, went into gear fine no crunch.

What im wondering is, is this doing any damage to the clutch? I have the nismo coppermix twinplate so I don’t wanna stuff it up but its normally light as a feather and id actually prefer a heavier clutch pedal.

o and this car is starting to p me off

finally got it into a workshop and there tellling me its the thrust bearing is worn out and itll cost 550 in labour to rip the gbox out to replace it. they are suggesting i wait till the clutch is worn to replace it.

ive got no idea what the thurstbearing is, will it damage the clutch or make it wear out faster? it seems to feel alright other than the noise at the moment.

anyone know how much it is to rebuild a nismo twin plate anyways :P

Edited by Inline 6

I'd just leave it for the moment but $550 seems a bit too pricey for that type of work, it's a little brass "ring" worth about $3 from Nissan.

To rebuild a Nismo twin plate is about $900ish from NPC

Luke i think your thinking of the spigot bearing that sits in the end of the crank and the end of the input shaft runs inside it.

The thrust bearing is on the bearing that rides on you input shaft and it what pushes (or in the case of a pull type clutch, pull) the "fingers" on the clutch when you press your pedal.

Regardless both parts are worth bugger all but it is a gearbox out job so would there's a fair bit of labour involved.

I would take the mechanics recomendation and wait until your clutch is stuffed and do them together becasue the labour cost will be the same.

It won't damage anything but if you end up with a scretching noise when you press the pedal then the bearing has colapsed and you will then need to change it.

Having said that the symptoms that you have described don't sound like thrust bearing to me as that would have no effect on pedal feel.

Your thoughts about the clutch booster sound more on the money to me. The other thing it could be is a broken pivot point for your clutch leaver. I have had the same thing happen to my car and after month of not figuring out what it was eventualy (on an SAU cruise) i put my foot and the pedal and the clutch didn't engage which led an emergency pit stop at windies lookout. Ended up driving the car through the hills back to Campbelltown with no clutch which was a lesson in matching revs on gear change.

Edited by D_Stirls

if its not a daily driver ya could tear it apart, find the problem, fix/replace the part and whack it back together yourself.

it would be an educational experiance and you could get to know your car a little more in doing so, it would make for a fun and intresting weekend.

FYI my brother-in-law David (Red back on SAU) is running his R33GTR (with R34GTR Nur engine in it) at the Bathurst Motorsport Festival this weekend. FB group below if anyone want to check out pics/join.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/586460034705368/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...