Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This engine is from a 1998 nissan stagea rs4 auto its an rb25det neo 4wd it has 180000kms

Head gasket was changed at 110000 and head was serviced (i overheated it)

I overheated it again at 180000 when the radiator gave way but shut it down to late and spun a main bearing (knocking in the bottom end)

All parts there good for project engine alternator, ac,turbo , inlet manifold ,exhaust manifold, and heaps more

$650 neg cash must pick up from gladesville

email me [email protected]

what condition is the head? or os it beyond salvageable? warped or cracked?

hi mate, i have bought this car from adam and am looking to sell the engine etc so flick me a pm

im located in western sydney (lower blue mountains)

pete

what condition is the head? or os it beyond salvageable? warped or cracked?

sorry about the late reply i dont check sau much the head should be fine but it is still on the engine so i am not 100% sure on the cond but when it was taken off the first time it was good and i had it crack tested and valves done and everything was tested and the guys at thornleigh cylinder heads said it was all great so we put a new head gasket arp studs and all ned timing belt,seals,waterpump,and the rest and everything was running great until the radator gave way and it the engine got to hot again. Pm me if anyone needs more info so i get an email direct to my phone just quicker thanks

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...