Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Bought myself a "dash cam", It's a small camera that is quite nicely hidden behind the rear view mirror to capture the drive ahead.

The problem i have is that i can't think of a good way to make the power cable for it tidy and out of site, The cable just goes to from Mini USB to the cigarette lighter.

Is there anyone that has an idea of how i could do this? Possibly running the cable along or under trim to get towards the cigarette lighter?

Had a look to see if anyone has written up anything about it before with no luck, Any help would be great!

Car is a 2000 R34GTT Coupe, as a note if it helps... it has a stock sunroof and the stock triple gauge cluster above the A/C.

I tucked mine under the head liner and then in the A pillar trim then between the dash and door seal, then behind the glove box to the cig lighter. I'm planning on wiring a new lighter port in behind the dash to plug it into.

I tucked mine under the head liner and then in the A pillar trim then between the dash and door seal, then behind the glove box to the cig lighter. I'm planning on wiring a new lighter port in behind the dash to plug it into.

Yeah i think that will be my first option, if i can tuck the wires neatly enough under the head liner and trim i'll just leave it like that.

Does the wire stay under the head liner without any adhesives or clips/ties?

Generally it'll stay in the liner if you give it a good tuck in the wedges, did this for my gps in my old car and was stuck in forever.

I've been looking for a dash cam too, mind linking me the one you got?

Got a GS1000 model off ebay.

Exact one i bought: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GS1000-Camera-Car-DVR-HD-1080P-30FPS-Built-in-GPS-G-sensor-IR-LED-Night-Visin-/251128301500?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7869c7bc&_uhb=1#ht_6727wt_1148

Full HD 1080p 30fps, read a lot on the Whirpool forums about it. (good camera thats better than the cheaper entry level ones)

Whirlpool Thread http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1952995

Website with a shitload of good reviews and examples http://dashcamtalk.com

Hey everyone,

Bought myself a "dash cam", It's a small camera that is quite nicely hidden behind the rear view mirror to capture the drive ahead.

The problem i have is that i can't think of a good way to make the power cable for it tidy and out of site, The cable just goes to from Mini USB to the cigarette lighter.

Is there anyone that has an idea of how i could do this? Possibly running the cable along or under trim to get towards the cigarette lighter?

Had a look to see if anyone has written up anything about it before with no luck, Any help would be great!

Car is a 2000 R34GTT Coupe, as a note if it helps... it has a stock sunroof and the stock triple gauge cluster above the A/C.

Easy

Pull the screws out of sun visor hold clip

Pull screws out of visor

Now the headliner will be loose enough to push wires under from the front but use a tiny bit of duct tape or gaffer tape to tape down under headliner away from copper tube in front of the sunroof ( its a roof heater to keep ice off sunroof and flinging it off at speed do not break open or drill thru it)the tape will keep wires from walking around under your screws too , so you dont screw thru wires

Undo the a pillar molding -gentle!!!! Or you will break it or clips

slide loose from door arch trim

Remove the rubber around front of door on car

Now you have a path for the wiring down to fuse box or to cig lighter

you can hardwire to switched 12v with a 1 amp fuse you just need to figure out polarity of the factory cig plug , unscrew it and trace the fuse solder joint Note which wire it is , marked or not

The fuse wire is positive

The twin metal tabs ground

You're a legend Troy! that's exactly what i was looking for actually, i never knew about that copper pipe! very interesting.

With the pillar moulding, It's just clipped in and has no screws? So i just need to be careful when prying it away?

Cheers

You're a legend Troy! that's exactly what i was looking for actually, i never knew about that copper pipe! very interesting.

With the pillar moulding, It's just clipped in and has no screws? So i just need to be careful when prying it away?

Cheers

The A pillars are brittle and most are broken already

Use a plastic or wooden panel popper tool if you have one , or a thin plastic or wooden spatula / bog spreader/ putty knife or worse case a old butter knife slid into the small gap by the bend , your trying to put tension on the middle of the panel vertical and walk it around slowly towards the back of the car,( which has two little hook hoop catches on the end holding it by your head

Gently moving it open they pop out leave the lower front till last

Once you start working the front lower half its final holding part is a hoop of plastic on the very end ,

two hands and some flex will pop it free without breaking ( the little white clips on the back check for all of them and if missing replace for a few bucks) also superglue any broken black holders now ( ca model glue from hobby shop works best)

Dont bend the rubber molding in the door ( skylines worse feature ! damn doors that wont stay open )its $$$$ and will cause water / wind wistles/ fumes to enter

the sunroof model has a butt load of room hidden behind the center sunroof switch plate , mine has a tv and gauges embedded in the area in carbon surround now !! Haha

Use care fixing wires by pedals if you go to cig lighter power nothing worse to deal with while driving

Haha sweet, Thanks so much for your advice dude, I haven't got a panel popper tool but do have similar tools that i can use. Also have some model glue (from when i used to make model planes and cars) so i think i'm all set!

Your set up sounds swish, do you have pics on the forum somewhere?

Haha sweet, Thanks so much for your advice dude, I haven't got a panel popper tool but do have similar tools that i can use. Also have some model glue (from when i used to make model planes and cars) so i think i'm all set!

Your set up sounds swish, do you have pics on the forum somewhere?

No current ones of the inside or out

Performance auto and sound mag in north america had it in readers rides issue and it was tuner of the week last year

Car of the year for SAU-SA first year

Its undergoing major mods with new upgraded gear , carbon kevlar body kit , some suspension and engine mods just in time for repaint haha

its being documented for a feature car shot in magazine , pointless to post photos now everyday just about something changes lol

Plush black carpet and racing seats and lots more today

Edited by Carbon 34

Sounds amazing mate, look forward to seeing photos some day

Thanks again for the help!

Premod exterior photos from tuner of the week

http://www.pasmag.com/features/reader-rides-from-your-garage-to-ours/2135-tuner-of-the-week-troy-edmonds

Absolutely immaculate car dude, photos are amazing!

Great example of a white 34

Thanks I took those with my old camera 10mp sony alpha

New 25mp more better haha

Will post the build up after done and edited

It includes many how too's and why's

Car wont even look close to that except white still

whoops, just noted the article says Polar White! nevermind!

Lol its most likely going to be painted another white absolute pure with white epoxy primer

That creates a blueish purple hue in street lights at night , almost a colour flip but no pearl its the light spectrum refraction ( my old rx7 was painted a variation of that ,it works )

I love the storm trooper look but carbon attracts the police around here, so sadly those body parts will get paint

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...