Big Brakes For R32 Gtst

[StevenCJR31]

hi. looking at fitting the biggest factory size brakes that i can fit on my gtst. any suggestions as to what will fit on the standard hubs? i was thinking along the lines of series 2 r34 rotors/calipers f&r?? (thoughts?)like most on here i would like brembo but they are wayy out of my price range

Edited January 5, 2013 by StevenCJR31

[GTSBoy]

By far the easiest thing to do is to buy some 324mm GTR V-spec rotors (get new ones from DBA rather than trying to find some secondhand ones) and get the caliper adaptors that will relocate your R32 calipers out to the right radial distance to work with the rotors. There is a thread on here covering all that.

The next easiest is to just get some R33 calipers and rotors. The rotors go straight on, the calipers go straight on. Instant 296mm front brakes. The benefit here is that the R33 calipers tend to be less flexxy than the crappy old R32 ones (do yours squeak, creak and groan? Most of the do). The bad side is that the rotors are obviously much smaller than the 324mm ones. But sadly there is no really good way to space out the R33 calipers to the 324mm rotors.

R34 are not as easy. The rotors go on, but the caliper bolts are larger (14mm instead of 12mm) so you need to drill and tap to suit. That gives you 310mm rotors and the newest/most recent Skyline calipers. So a good compromise. But people still want a lot of $$ for r34 brakes, so it's only so-so on the value stakes.

The best thing by far, although at a somewhat higher entry price, is the 330mm big brake kit that is organised by Nismoid. Look for the threads. There's one in here (Which big brake kit) and there's one you can follow from a link in Nismoid's sig. $1800 or thereabouts gets you big brakes, new calipers, new braided hoses and pads. All new, all good. Just a bit more money than you might have wanted to spend. I'd be doing it in a flash.....if a street car really needed them. Which they really don't.

[StevenCJR31]

By far the easiest thing to do is to buy some 324mm GTR V-spec rotors (get new ones from DBA rather than trying to find some secondhand ones) and get the caliper adaptors that will relocate your R32 calipers out to the right radial distance to work with the rotors. There is a thread on here covering all that.

The next easiest is to just get some R33 calipers and rotors. The rotors go straight on, the calipers go straight on. Instant 296mm front brakes. The benefit here is that the R33 calipers tend to be less flexxy than the crappy old R32 ones (do yours squeak, creak and groan? Most of the do). The bad side is that the rotors are obviously much smaller than the 324mm ones. But sadly there is no really good way to space out the R33 calipers to the 324mm rotors.

R34 are not as easy. The rotors go on, but the caliper bolts are larger (14mm instead of 12mm) so you need to drill and tap to suit. That gives you 310mm rotors and the newest/most recent Skyline calipers. So a good compromise. But people still want a lot of $$ for r34 brakes, so it's only so-so on the value stakes.

The best thing by far, although at a somewhat higher entry price, is the 330mm big brake kit that is organised by Nismoid. Look for the threads. There's one in here (Which big brake kit) and there's one you can follow from a link in Nismoid's sig. $1800 or thereabouts gets you big brakes, new calipers, new braided hoses and pads. All new, all good. Just a bit more money than you might have wanted to spend. I'd be doing it in a flash.....if a street car really needed them. Which they really don't.

Thanks v much for the info! i changed to 33 front brakes a while ago (secondhand) but the front shudders under brakes (annoying) hence why i was looking at something else, i dont mind paying $$ for a good setup for the car but the $1800 setup is out of my league and may not be necessary for a street car. . .thanks for the advice mate

[GTSBoy]

Shuddering brakes can be fixed. Get the rotors lightly skimmed if they have enough meat on them. They may be warped (unlikely) or they may have uneven deposits of brake pad material on them (much more likely). Get new rotors if need be. Service the calipers. Make sure that the piston seals are OK and everything is moving as it should. New pads on freshly skimmed rotors, when bedded in correctly, should be able to run for a long time without shuddering.

You can also try to "rebed" the pads you have. If everything abotu your brakes looks basically OK (I pads have good thickness and are not showing any nasty hard spots, grooves in the rotors, etc) then go out to a spot where you can drive around the block fairly briskly. And industrial area at night is OK provided it's not a typical drifter's hangout, otherwise the cops may interrupt your work. Drive the thing around and around, braking more and more solidly at each corner until the brakes are really quite hot. Then give them a few really hard stops from decent speed down to near stop (without quite stopping) then back off your driving style by doing less aggressive stops, then cruise around to cool them down. Ideally, the gradual heat up will have softened the pad material on the rotors and the hard stops at high temperature should clean them off, then you cool them down gradually with some continued use to prevent material resticking. I have done this a few times on cars that get brake abuse (usually driven by women drivers who like to drive up to red lights at warp speed, then throw out the anchors at the last instant then sit with their foot on the brake pedal through the whole light cycle, then wonder why the brakes are all shuddery).

You can also take the pads out and give them a light scruff up on some flat but slightly rough concrete (if they look glazed or otherwise wrong....if they look god, don't do it). And you can give the rotors a rubs with some ~180 grit garnet paper to try to move any stuck pad material. Use a block behind the paper, rather than fingers - gives a more even rub. Try to do all the rotor surface evenly, although if there are clear high spots and low spots, work the high spots!).

[StevenCJR31]

once again, thanku for the info, the rotors that are on the front have been skimmed once before by the guy that i got them off so there may or may not be enough thickness left in them but i have some roads (industrial area nearby) so i will give that a crack later

[StevenCJR31]

^^^IF this doesnt work out can the r34 hub etc be bolted into the r32 front without issues?have seen some cheap 34 hubs on ebay

[R31Nismoid]

Shuddering might simply be a case of you warping them... So would depend the following - how hard you are driving? Current rotor size? Cooling/ducting?

If they are low as you suspect (after having them skimmed) and you are getting them pretty hot then sounds like the cause there. Fix is obviously larger/more heat dissipation capacity, just depends how much you need (as per above Qs)

[StevenCJR31]

i SUSPECT i may of warped them as i use the B.L.A.T method of driving (brake late and turn) there is no aditional cooling for the brakes. . hence why im leaning towards (say) r34 brakes as they are thicker and wider . . im just looking at the easiest option and availability

[Missileman]

Very unlikely the rotors are warped, as described previously give them a good sand with fresh 180-240 emery and a block for even support, then lightly sand the pads then re-bed them in, if it still shudders then look else where, possibly suspension bushings.

[StevenCJR31]

^^^have taken all the above on board. . thanks for the replies guys. much appreciated