Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am pleased to find that track car builds are now in the motorsport section. I have read a few over the weekend and have decided to make a build thread here as well. I will do this in a series of posts to make it easier for people to follow.

In short I have owned the car for a bout 4 years and will copy a my build thread from another forum to save time.

I bought the car about 4 years ago to use in the Speed Event Series, it got delayed by a dick head at a certain workshop. It is now proudly looked after by Andrew at Hyperdrive.

It was wingless when I got it but now has a white bootlid with GTR copy wing.

Mods so far are:

Standard RB25 (compression is a bit low on a few cylinders)

HKS 2835 Turbo

Sard 800cc injectors

Greddy Plenum

Yellow Jacket coil packs

3" turbo back exhaust

Wilkinson's Bilstein coilover

Cusco camber and caster rods

HKS boost controler

Nistune

Koyo radiator

High flowed standard exhaust manifold

P1 Racing rims running Toyo R888

Roll Cage Thanks to Tom at Racing Dynamics

Oil Cooler and remote oil filter kit

unknown brand FMIC

Oil Catch Can

Strut brace

Hicas Lock Kit

Fuel in tank Bosch 044

Velo Apex seat

There may be a bit more but I can't remember ATM.

Currently on Hyderdrive Dyno it is pushing 350 rwhp

My PB times at Wanneroo and Collie are:

Wanneroo Short: 57.209

Wanneroo Long: 1.06.6733

Collie: 51.3304

Anyway you are not here to listen tome dribble shit so onto the Pics:

When I first got it:

460_37408266817_3285_n.jpg

460_37408276817_3891_n.jpg

180167_501384341817_2658988_n.jpg

Then added stickers to please the accountant:

253680_10150193010476818_1464538_n.jpg

248400_10150193011331818_5732205_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417156-wa-shauns-r33-gts-t-track-car-build/
Share on other sites

Part 2.

Then i had a spin at the Collie hillclimb, I locked a left rear brake over some bumps and the speed recall i did have in the car recalled max speed at 207km/h and I did not hit anything.

This spin put the car off the road for most of last year for a cage install.

It scared the absolute crap out of me.

Pic:

CollieSpin-1.jpg

  • Like 1

So we cleaned the interior to get rid of all the sticky stuff after dry iceing the sound deadenning stuff off even had the missus helping out.

Then we painted it:

6DEC8EAD-BE5C-4C7E-AE7A-758CE2FB37D8-4357-0000063E8211C3E7.jpg

CD098CA8-FAE5-449A-9356-3A87AEE785B0-4357-0000063E268D13E4.jpg

BB4366DA-2DA2-4CB5-A2F6-1C2BBD81BD04-4357-0000063E207CFF44.jpg

46CB8268-A387-4707-8F04-72CB38B491FB-4357-0000063E176FFDD0.jpg

2 tone was a good idea in our heads but an absolute bastard to do.

The dash cut and covered in felt and door trims were made from that plastic sign flute material covered in felt. I am still running electric windows and mirrors.

D2D2BE32-4C90-4D5A-B262-0D7ACD690375-1244-00000103AA4FDD0D.jpg

DriversDoor_zps306222be.jpg

Dash1_zpsca224088.jpg

Dash_zpsb759ac54.jpg

Using a ECUtech display unit for now until the budget allows for a proper dash with all the bells and whistles.

Then we fitted up some new DBA4000 rotors for the front with Ferado DS2500 pads all round. I cracked a left rear rotor in October last year on a 3 day event so all I could do at the time was fit up a pair of skimmed standard rear rotors that are still in the car for now.

1BF144D8-78AE-454C-816E-3C77BD0D0EFA-1546-00000198E692CE55.jpg

F9D5E6C2-9CE3-48B4-A5B0-F4D2E6E44FF5-1546-00000198E121AE5F.jpg

This is how is sits at the moment. Between business commitments, and building the million $ dream house the cars budget is a bit slim for the next 6 months or so.

Over the next month or so I will be fitting a fiberglass bonnet with flush mounted pins, battery cut off switch etc, relocating the battery to the floor behind the passenger seat and a few other little CAMS requirement stuff. Then it will be inspected for log book. One of the next big jobs is to lower the drivers seat as my head with the helmet on sits up in the bars a little bit too much for my liking.

Over here we have Street Cars which is a Sports Sedan with rules, more like a IPRA car without turbo restricter and does not have to have a dash. As the car is still road reg and in the Speed Event Series I do run it as a road registered car and until I get pinged it will remain registered.

The idea is for the car to do the Speed Event Series and a couple of club races each year. I do plan to add more power in the future but not much more and 400 to 430 rwhp to keep it reliable and cost effective and more importantly FUN.

It currently weights 1,325kg's with half a tank of fuel and no driver so there is still heaps of weight to go.

I will try and update in more detail from here on and welcome any feedback.

Cool keep up the good work, how's the drivers seat after that spin, does it have a hole in it lol :woot:.

Thanks, no marks on the seat,a standard drivers seat is for sale.

The Velo has made a huge difference to feel in the car.

The seat fix is on a bit of a go slow at the moment as my mate who can weld is finding it a a bit hard to get some race car play time as his wife is due any day now with twins. Fun times ahead for him. I not looking to run it until mid Feb so we have plenty of time to sort the seat position out.

  • 1 month later...

So it has been very hot in Perth all over Christmas and still is. I have been so lazy since the December sprint and have not done a thing other than buy a 2nd hand fiberglass bonnet that needs some TLC.

so today i decided with 3 weeks before the 1st event this year that I should start doing something. So will try and start cleaning up the bonnet and bought the following battery today.

So over the next week or so I will be putting the battery cutoff switch and external pull ring cut off switch, install the bonnet and the new light weight battery. It weighs 1.5kg.

247FF786-3FA5-4550-8697-61437FEF69E2-1439-0000020B0221DCB4_zps6ddce3c1.jpg

So on the weekend I decided to repair the fiberglass bonnet I picket up for $100 and see how it goes this weekend at the track. If it survives then i will fix the paint on the top.

I also relocated the battery with a Lithium one that weighs 1.5kg and removed the passenger seat as the car now has moved to outright in our Speed Event Series and does not need it for circuit duties later in the year.

The battery is solid in place. This will stay this way until after it is log booked. When I build the proper race engine the car will also get a full race car re wiring for more weight reduction.

Overall weigh saving this round = 29kg approx.

Underside of bonnet

2B4FAE32-72AE-4C77-8796-41B80F3D9817-373

Top of Bonnet

D032E345-6568-468B-966D-E0D194167BE4-373

Battery relocation

405D0BF5-94CC-4557-AAC7-EBF8E7DE422C-373

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
    • I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.
    • IMO wrap does have its uses, but like you said, quality wrap, and professional installation, would probably cost want a quality paint job does, but, the paint, if maintained, is basically for life, and much easier to touch up if required  In other news: it's pissing down here, with thunder, lightning and only some small hail "at this stage", luckily all "my" cars are undercover  I've also been contacted by a guy in Newcastle about the SS, he said he will come down next weekend for a look, we'll see how that transpires I guess 🫰
×
×
  • Create New...