Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres the short version. I used to run KTS coilovers, then I changed to stock suspension for 6 months, but the stock units are shite and I want some proper handling back. Although I used the coilovers before previously for drift, I now use my car as a daily driver and have no time for the harshness, especially on Melbourne roads with all those damn tramlines. So my question is,

What spring rates would give me still some firmness (it is a sportscar afterall) and yet still be soft enough that I would have a reasonable level of comfort on the roads. I might take it to the track, say a couple of times a year, but for the other 98% of the time, I want something that wont rattle my fillings out. The current spring rates are F 8kg/mm and R 7kg/mm.

What have you run?

What feels good for the road?

thanks

Anything softer from there will feel better on the road. 6/4 would be OK, if perhaps a tiny bit soft. The problem would be that unless the dampers have good adjustability, you may find tha they are just too overdamped for softer springs, which would suck balls.

i mine are at least 8/6 probably stiffer, you down push on the front and it doesnt budge...with bilsteins shocks it rides beautifully...

Only issue I find is due to the stiffness unexpected dips in the road can sometimes try throw the car of line....that just keeps you awake though and theres no teeth shattering ...if you want smooth its all in the shocks man.. ;)

Thanks. I owned my car in japan and drove it only weekends. The harshness didnt bother me because of that, as it was only short trips or on the track. i always had the shocks on full soft on the street as it would be pointless not too.

What about just say, changing the rear to a bit softer, or visa-versa instead of softnening both F and R? Anyone had experience with that?

And what else are you guys running for spring rates?

I currently run 5/4.5 and I find it a great compromise. (I have front and rear whiteline adjustable sway bars with both set to hard). I'd be reluctant to change my setup but if I had a choice of any spring rate for a street R33 and custom shocks to match I would go 6/5 (max).

I can't see how you could need any more than 6/5 for street duty. I actually doubt I use use more than 5/4.5 and that's with Federal RSR tyres around Mt Nebo.

You only need enough spring to control pitch, any excessive body roll should be cured with sway bar rates. A car with 6kg rear springs wouldn't have much rear grip on street tyres.

Edited by simpletool

From my exsperance,

My R31 had king sprins, 3.5kg/mm front and 2.9k/mm rear with kyb shocks. I also had strut braces, sway bars, and nolerthane bushes.

The car handled great for daily driving and was very comfterble, but also courned very well. May be look at the king spring rates for your car and combine those with either kyb or bilstin shocks.

As a compaison i have Cusco zero 2 coilovers 10/8 i believe and they are very hard for street use.

Heres the short version. I used to run KTS coilovers, then I changed to stock suspension for 6 months, but the stock units are shite and I want some proper handling back. Although I used the coilovers before previously for drift, I now use my car as a daily driver and have no time for the harshness, especially on Melbourne roads with all those damn tramlines. So my question is,

What spring rates would give me still some firmness (it is a sportscar afterall) and yet still be soft enough that I would have a reasonable level of comfort on the roads. I might take it to the track, say a couple of times a year, but for the other 98% of the time, I want something that wont rattle my fillings out. The current spring rates are F 8kg/mm and R 7kg/mm.

What have you run?

What feels good for the road?

thanks

springs are great but the damper comes into play here....but saying that what feels great for us might not be so good for you.

id be going for about what you already have and softening the damper a bit

Edited by Frosty

The recommendation of 6/4kg/mm would be spot on, just run the thickest matched anti roll bars aka sway bars and you'll be sweet.

It's the in thing these days, stiff doesn't always mean good handling.

You will find some guidance in the first several posts of this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/79157-how-do-i-tell-what-my-spring-rates-are/

FWIW, stock R32 rears are less than 2.5 kg/mm from what I can tell. Stock R33 won't be much more despite the extra fat on the chassis. The fronts would probably be in the region of 4 kg/mm.

6/4 is pretty close to the optimum that Sydneykid recommended in the way backs.

Stock are around 2.7 - 2.9kg/mm., according to Tein.

I don't remember SK recommended 6/4 for the street, I'm sure he would say that is well on the firm side.

Edited by simpletool

It was my (vague) memory that he recommended ~200lb/in for the rears. That works out to about 3.6 kg/mm, and 4 is not that much stiffer. OK, 10% stiffer.

If he was instead recommending 200 lb/in for the fronts, then that's a different story. But that seems rather soft, even to me, and I'm not one of the hard spring junkies around here.

I was using 6/4 in a full weight GTR with custom valved Tien's... Problem is that it isn't just spring rates which dictate the ride.

As mentioned the damper, rebound and other factors come into play. Generally shit hard shocks will not benefit from going soft on the springs without being adjusted elsewhere to suit.

The best way is almost certain to be to sell the coilovers as they are, and buy something with a lower spring rate (BC racing get a good mention for the low $$$). But they don't make anything all that soft, and the valving is only OK.

Edited by simpletool

yep spring rate is only part of it.. shock valving is also a major part of how the car rides... I have had D2 coilovers with 12/10 ride softer than cusco coilvovers with 8/6 int he same car.. I'm no expert but that's my experience

hmm this is a pickle. makes me wonder why they sell springs separatly for coilovers when it appears like it wouldnt be a great fix by just doing this. ahhhh what to do.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...