Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale is my R34 GT-T which unfortunately had some bad luck and met a wall.

This car has been very well maintained and ran/runs flawlessly. It has been serviced every 5000Km and have had no major issues with it.

The car is stock minus a 3" Exhaust turbo back, JVC speakers and DVD headunit.

It has brand new coilpacks and an Excedy Heavy Duty Clutch which has done 6000Km.

The car is still registered until 23 Jan and has not been classified as damaged or as a write off.

The main damage has been sustained to the front right hand side of the vehicle with some less significant damage on the right rear. The car will still drive although it has no radiator or intercooler as both were damaged beyond repair. The rear bar has only minor damage, a picture will be included later if required. Included is a front bar in reasonably good condition.

I was planning to repair the vehicle but do not have time due to work commitments.

Located in Frankston, Vic

Contact: Joel 0437 944 223

Price: $6000 Ono

P1000855_zps7c8458a1.jpg

P1000856_zps2f8a34a9.jpg

P1000849_zps84f06f3b.jpg

P1000852_zpsfc10b13f.jpg

P1000861_zps9c68da0d.jpg

P1000858_zpsf65498e4.jpg

Edited by sirjb
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417454-damaged-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...