Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car's idle drop from 5000rpm to 6000 at the light sometimes, anyone had this problems before?

It's NOT so worse but my baby has never let me down or behave like this for the past 2years.

There are a few things that i supspected :

Pod is dirty.

Crank angle plug is dirty.

Oil got into spark plugs cos' when i change oil some drop on top of the engine and slip through ( Hardly cos' each spark coves has seal )

Throtle plug is dirty?

Reasone for all the dirty dirty things here are i've never wash my engine. I always belive internal is everything ( thats why i always have the best oil/change on time ).

Any suggestion please post.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41750-idle-droping-hellp/
Share on other sites

Sorry West, can you restate what your idle is doing?  I dont really understand your problem from the above post.

also, list of mods might help.

Idle : has always sit at 7000rpm

Mods : Zorst all the way, Jap/chipped ECU, front mount, pod, boost controller, SAFC just recently installed by ICE.

Car's normall driving is ok except when i stop at a traffic light idle drop from 5000rpm to almost 6000rpm .

THis only happen when engine at normal operating temputure, cold start has never an issue.

Thanks for trying to help STEVE but like i said it's not so bad but you know when you love somebody * it's kinda anoy when they behave differently :)

OK, well I assume you are saying the car normally sits on 700rpm? If its stock, I believe the idle is around 660rpm for a manual, but anyway...

If it is hunting between 500-600 at times, the first thing I would be checking is the AAC valve. this is located at the back of the plenum, and bleeds air into the plenum to maintain the correct idle speed.

If it is hunting, its possible that the valve has a little carbon blocking it. By adjusting the screw, it should identify if that is the problem or not.

Other things to consider, when did you last change the spark plugs? Do you give it good runs, or does it do mainly short trips? (this can cause the plugs to foul) If you do mainly short runs, it could be worht changing the plugs more regularly, or giving the car a good dose of WOT every now and then.

Good luck. Try the AAC vavle first though.

should have mentioned, when checking if the AAC valve is the problem, make sure the car is fully up to temperature, and starts hunting, then adjust about 1/2-1 turn anticlockwise (opening), if this makes no difference it probably isnt the AAC vavle. If it does improve, but not enough, just open it a bit more.

My problem almost solve ( i hope ), after clean all the electrical contacts....everything pretty much clean excepted for the water temp ( next to the radiator shrould ), it was kind of dirty and look like burn to me, the plastic connectors were melt...eg.

I gave it a good clean ( gonna put new connectors on ) then adjust the screw ( for idle i think ???? behind the plenium ) a bit and from then till now problem havn't araise since.

Havn't clean the AAC out yet as the whole UNIT looks like a motor to me so didn't touch that one yet, havn't done a long drive test as yet ( to see if idle still playing up ) but i will in a week time.

As for this week i'll just drive around to trail it out for a bit more.

__________________

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
    • Nice, let me know how you find the 98 tune
×
×
  • Create New...