Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Know How To Lock The Aircon To Produce Cold Air Only? (As In Mechanically Or Heater Hoses, Etc?)


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

My blend door servo is still giving me head aches, so instead of trying to sort that out for the 3rd time, I wanted to know if anyone knew how to jimmy the aircon to just produce cold air?

I remember reading on a past thread that someone managed to do so by taking out a heater hose or something in the engine bay or possibly re-directing one to just allow cold air to flow? (can't find the thread anymore :( )

Anyway, if anyone knows anything about how to do it or know's a link of how to do so, that's be great as i'm tired of hot air right now lol

thanks

meta

Looping or blocking the heater hoses off may produce cool air, but may produce ambient air temperatures

if your already playing with the blend door, cant you just zip tie it in the cold only position or something? That is the easiest thing to do.

Looping or blocking the heater hoses off may produce cool air, but may produce ambient air temperatures

if your already playing with the blend door, cant you just zip tie it in the cold only position or something? That is the easiest thing to do.

Lol, i've actually zip tied the blend door to cold already, but i'm still get warm air

Pop the cable off the water valve and keep it in the closed position

thanks mate, and i hate to sound like noob, but where is that located lol... i'm just being wary to tread carefully, i've had enough mishaps lately lol

Removing heater hoses wil give judt cold air. Did it on my r33, seems a/c mixes hot/cold to regulate temp so just cold will give exactly that.

Removing heater hoses wil give judt cold air. Did it on my r33, seems a/c mixes hot/cold to regulate temp so just cold will give exactly that.

Is that cold as in "Cold" aircon? or just ambient cold air?

If you've got the flap locked to cold only, then the reason you are only getting ambient air is that your aircon may be low on gas. when you turn the aircon on, can you hear the compressor kick in? Is the aircon properly cold when the engine is cold but gets warm once the engine does? if the compressor doesn't kick in then its probably low on gas. If the aircon starts off properly cold then heats up then its the heater tap.

the aircon was recently serviced and also re-gassed, so i'm assuming it's not that

The compressor does engaged and works fine, what i'm finding is that once the aircon is on, it just blows ambient air, which rises stays at a constant warm heat.

It was working perfectly fine prior to my blend door servo motor dying

I had an airconditioning place remove the motor and "apparently lock it" in the cold position, which doesn't seem to be the case :(

as for the heater tap? sorry, you may have to explain this one too me sorry lol, not good with aircon

If you have zip tied it so the blend door is in the full cold position and ur not getting cold air then you have a problem. Are you sure its in the fully cold position?

And yeah see if your AC compressor clutch is engaging. Should be able to see the front of the compressor stationary then start spinning when the AC button is pressed on

the aircon was recently serviced and also re-gassed, so i'm assuming it's not that

The compressor does engaged and works fine, what i'm finding is that once the aircon is on, it just blows ambient air, which rises stays at a constant warm heat.

It was working perfectly fine prior to my blend door servo motor dying

I had an airconditioning place remove the motor and "apparently lock it" in the cold position, which doesn't seem to be the case :(

as for the heater tap? sorry, you may have to explain this one too me sorry lol, not good with aircon

the heater tap is to do with the coolant entering the heater unit. basically, when you turn on the heater, the tap opens and allows the warm coolant to enter the heater core. if the tap is dodgey then you will have coolant circulating through the core all the time, but this shouldn't affect the air temp too much unless the flap wasn't fully set to cold.

If you have zip tied it so the blend door is in the full cold position and ur not getting cold air then you have a problem. Are you sure its in the fully cold position?

And yeah see if your AC compressor clutch is engaging. Should be able to see the front of the compressor stationary then start spinning when the AC button is pressed on

I was under the assumption that it was, however, since i haven't had the time to pull it out, i've decided to just take it to another airconditioning place to sort it out

As for the AC clutch, it does engage, the whole system is working fine, just not producing cold air lol

the heater tap is to do with the coolant entering the heater unit. basically, when you turn on the heater, the tap opens and allows the warm coolant to enter the heater core. if the tap is dodgey then you will have coolant circulating through the core all the time, but this shouldn't affect the air temp too much unless the flap wasn't fully set to cold.

thanks for the reply mate, I'm having it checked out today, so i'll repost when (hopefully), it gets fixed, hopefully this post will help someone later in the track

Just had it checked, it was the air compressor :(

Now does, anyone know where i can find brand new air compressors for an r32 gtr? and if they're exactly the same as the normal r32 gts-t?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...