Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmm well you could do this:

for performance increases:

- 3" exhaust: dump/front/cat/cat-back/muffler

- high-flow panel filter in original airbox

- cold air intake

- turbo: many options from higfh-flow rb25 turbo to something like a 2530 or whatever

- FMIC

- re-chip standard ECU or get a PowerFC

- EBC + boost increase

for reliability increases:

- gtr fuel pump + fuel pressure regulator

- oil cooler

- trannie cooler

that should just about do it!

please correct me if anythign i said was inaccurate...

cheers,

Waz.

A well tuned rb20 with a 2530 could make 220rwkw, but as already said, they seem to be making around 200rwkw. It depends how far you want to go really, a tune can make or break a combination so it is quite important. Im pretty sure that alot of those RB20's making 200kw off of a 2530 are running stock ecu (correct me if im wrong about this) so a PFC should be able to extract more power out of it.

I dont think the prob is so much the cost, but the ones i have seen have T25 flanges, but i expect they are available with T3.

If you look at the light tune drift cars in Japan with SR20s etc, a good percentage of them use Apexi, Tomei, Trust turbos, then if you look outside of Japan you have Turbonetics, Garret so many choices... but it depends on your budget

A 2nd hand 2530 for $1500 represents good value, but if you have $2500-3000 to spend on a new turbo then dont forget to look around at what other manufacturers make.

where using a t3 t4 garret turbo and where making 230rwkw from our rb20. we have got forgies in oursa but that only for reliability, but my cuz has got wolf, FMIC, turbo and exausht and he is making 200rwkw so for more punch i would say mabye even a set of cams?

cyas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...