Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Part:

RB26/30 long motor

Condition:

Built but never run :(

Description:

Typical story, got rid of project car due to purchase of house and the wife was pregnant with my first child...now the wife is pregnant with the second kid and I have a bathroom that desperately needs to be redone.

All up I remember spending around the $14,000 mark, so my loss is your gain.

More info:

- A8 block (bored, honed, decked)

- R32 GTR head

- HKS gaskets

- Head cleaned and serviced

- shot peened and linished conrods

- Crank/oil pump collar

- Crank balanced

- rotating assembly balanced, crank grub screwed and fitted with colar

- ACL forged pistons

- ACL bearings

- GTR Oil and water pumps

- HKS adjustable cam gears

- HKS cams, unknown model...didn't think to check before delivering to builder and he said he couldn't find a model number on them.

There are bits missing from the motor, including all the AAC gear, loom, valley and cam covers...This would be the perfect upgrade for someone that already has an RB26 that is looking for a bigger bottom end.

8.8:1 static compression (quite high for a 26/30) this was from my request during the build for better off boost driveability, I can't remember the exact combination that we used to get there, but it also included decking the block a little. Feel free to post questions, but remember it was a while ago now so my memory is a little vague

Location:

Blacktown, NSW

Contact Details:

[email protected]

PM on this site

I'll include my mobile number to serious people

Asking Price:

Looking for offers above $6,000...feel like I'm low balling myself

Or, feel free to offer something of interest...you never know

Pick-up/Postage Arrangements:

I'm willing to transport it inside the Sydney area...but you'll owe me a beer when I get there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417541-rb2630-long-motor/
Share on other sites

I'm not interested in separating, sorry.

No photos of the build, it was done by MRC Dyno Services (Castle Hill, NSW)

I've got 2 of the 3 receipts (lost the first one)

http://i225.photobuc...8may09page1.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...8may09page2.jpg

Images of the long motor

http://i225.photobuc...fsomecovers.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...ginebuilder.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...26inletside.jpg

It also comes with the throttle bodies, inlet plenum, half the loom (been hacked up, probably better thrown away)

EDIT: The harmonic balancer is from an R31 Skyline

Edited by NXGriffo

Anyone recovered from buyer's remorse after the Christmas Period? Maybe you'd like another round of spending...look no further, beef up that Skyline with a properly built 26/30, not just another slap together hybrid.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...