Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Part:

RB26/30 long motor

Condition:

Built but never run :(

Description:

Typical story, got rid of project car due to purchase of house and the wife was pregnant with my first child...now the wife is pregnant with the second kid and I have a bathroom that desperately needs to be redone.

All up I remember spending around the $14,000 mark, so my loss is your gain.

More info:

- A8 block (bored, honed, decked)

- R32 GTR head

- HKS gaskets

- Head cleaned and serviced

- shot peened and linished conrods

- Crank/oil pump collar

- Crank balanced

- rotating assembly balanced, crank grub screwed and fitted with colar

- ACL forged pistons

- ACL bearings

- GTR Oil and water pumps

- HKS adjustable cam gears

- HKS cams, unknown model...didn't think to check before delivering to builder and he said he couldn't find a model number on them.

There are bits missing from the motor, including all the AAC gear, loom, valley and cam covers...This would be the perfect upgrade for someone that already has an RB26 that is looking for a bigger bottom end.

8.8:1 static compression (quite high for a 26/30) this was from my request during the build for better off boost driveability, I can't remember the exact combination that we used to get there, but it also included decking the block a little. Feel free to post questions, but remember it was a while ago now so my memory is a little vague

Location:

Blacktown, NSW

Contact Details:

[email protected]

PM on this site

I'll include my mobile number to serious people

Asking Price:

Looking for offers above $6,000...feel like I'm low balling myself

Or, feel free to offer something of interest...you never know

Pick-up/Postage Arrangements:

I'm willing to transport it inside the Sydney area...but you'll owe me a beer when I get there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417541-rb2630-long-motor/
Share on other sites

I'm not interested in separating, sorry.

No photos of the build, it was done by MRC Dyno Services (Castle Hill, NSW)

I've got 2 of the 3 receipts (lost the first one)

http://i225.photobuc...8may09page1.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...8may09page2.jpg

Images of the long motor

http://i225.photobuc...fsomecovers.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...ginebuilder.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...26inletside.jpg

It also comes with the throttle bodies, inlet plenum, half the loom (been hacked up, probably better thrown away)

EDIT: The harmonic balancer is from an R31 Skyline

Edited by NXGriffo

Anyone recovered from buyer's remorse after the Christmas Period? Maybe you'd like another round of spending...look no further, beef up that Skyline with a properly built 26/30, not just another slap together hybrid.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...