Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

r34 gtr diff ratio = 3.545

r33 gtr diff ratio = 4.11

The r34 boxes are much stronger than the earlier gtr boxes (it was mentioned to be me when i had mine rebuilt that they can take 800+hp without modifcation) and usually cost ~$3-5k 2nd hand or ~10k brand new. Like the 33 boxes, these are also starting to get a little old and can have syncho problems if they have had an abusive life.

I'm unsure what modifications are required to make it work with the 33. Nismo make a conversion kit for the 32, which might give you an idea of which parts need changing. However, i beleive the total cost will be alot more then getting a r33 box built with stronger internals.

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

I thought it was a good idea, I bought all the parts to do but ended up on selling it all. Changed my mind because:

- the Getrag is not as easily rebuilt compared to the simpler R32/R33

- the transfer cases are different from the more common R32/R33

- there are less aftermarket options for gearsets, etc should you need a stronger transmission

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

460rwhp is a walk in the park for a R33 gearbox in good condition and properly driven/used.

A R34 GETRAG conversion will cost you at a minimum $7,000

2x Diffs - $1000

1x Gearbox - $3500-$5000

Labour (front diff is basically motor out) / oil / misc parts - $1200-$2,000

You can keep your factory diff ratio but that does alter the speedo massively and 1st/2nd also becomes quite short as a result, so for a daily it can be a pain.

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

OS Gear set. You're going to be putting new synchro's, bearings and stuff in it anyway. I got my 5 speed set with the big input shaft delivered for $2,760. You'd also be stupid not to put the billet centre plate which is another $900 or so.

It really isn't that bad especially if you take but the money you're already going to spend refreshing the box anyway.

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

Mine held fine @ 550-600HP, 8200rpm launches constantly for 18 months.

Might be worth the gamble just to get a 2nd hand one given they are about $800. Gearboxes failing is also dependant on the clutch. The Nismo Coppermix is very forgiving for a gearbox due to its construction and the clamp/pressure etc. Where say a nastier OS clutch isn't and will stress components a lot more.

You tend not to hear many people busting boxes that use Coppermix clutches as a result which is something a lot of people don't take into account

It's not really 1st that breaks though Ash. It's almost always 3rd that gives up.

One thing I'd like to see is a standard box but with the billet plate put in. It might be the solution to the issue without mega expense (especially if you're getting it freshened up anyway).

Indeed it's usually 3rd that does get stripped, it is a smaller gear etc so it makes sense.

Still clutches I think do play a solid part. I know someone that busted a OS box & a stock (without a Nismo), and then went back to a stock box with a Nismo and it was fine.

One example is far from truth but overall rarely hear a Nismo copper owner busting a box.

Where did you get the OS gear from Paul ? I may just get a second hand box and drop it in until such time as I break it. Then rebuild with the OS gear.

Going to get my OS twin rebuilt at NPC.

Greenline mate. Paid straight into their account and ot arrived 4 or 5 days later. Don't forget the centre plate either!!!! Gav from WA has smashed two OS sets and countless standard boxes. Funny enough, no centre plate and a JB clutch. He spoke to OS in Japan mad the first question they asked was if he had the standard plate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...