Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That front splitter interpretation did my head in, I emailed and spoke to Ian regarding this, and the response was basically what the rule says it is. So I was still confused as this wasn't an answer, so I emailed Scott beeton as he helped write the rules and this was his response back 27th April, 1.5 version rules.

I've shot an email through to Ian outlining your concerns.

As far as the front splitter length is concerned, I've asked for clarification, but it says that the profile must follow the outline of the front bar, but may extend 150mm longitudinally forward, so this allows for ONLY 150mm forward at any given point in the direction of travel of the vehicle. Where you get to the point that the vehicle front ends, ie, the side of the car, I would imagine that you cannot then go any further forward as you go out to the side.

Anyway, I'll chat with Ian and see if I can put together a document to clarify all of this.

Best regards,

Scott Beeton

Short story, its still open to interpretation so I reckon this year either way will be allowed, just in case we only went forward only.

John I reckon you will be ecstatic when the time comes.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yokohama are hosting a couple of pre-wtac track days.

- fastest car on the day gets their entry refunded

- they are going to have AD08R's on hand for testing

- more trophies

Winton

http://www.circuitclub.com.au/event/45

Wakefield

http://www.circuitclub.com.au/event/46

Hey dan not worried, I was thinking about buying one as a track car already complete, if these guys can get them down to 1050ish on 350 reliable kw then that would be fantastic, 450 is another level, I had a 2000 model wrx and loved it, but was only a street car. Love the gtr and I wouldn't sell it ever, but if you guys had a choice knowing what you know now what car would you get for a circuit car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...