Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have done a search and didn't find a definite answer.

I am wondering what the length is or even just shortened/lengthened for RB25 gearbox into R32 (specifically 4door, if there's a difference?)

I realise I need a 25 yoke for the tailshaft but can anyone give me anymore info regarding the conversion? As I've read a few contradictory threads about it.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417936-tailshaft-length-for-25-box-in-r32/
Share on other sites

You don't even need to know. Just front up to any decent tailshaft place. You possibly won't even need to tell them what you want. If you hand them a full R32 tailshaft and the front half of an RB25 one, they'll already know what you want and just do it. They will have done it 3 times that week already, even if you arrive on a Monday.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to say but you are wrong. Rang up hardy spicer today and apparently they don't keep records and guess what it's a Monday also.

Anyone with any useful information that could help me out?

His point wasnt that there is an exact length for every car and that they would be able to rattle it off to you.

Each car (depending on how the box is sitting in the car) will need some slight adjustment. Sure there might be a ballpark length, but do you really want to get it farbicated to this length to find its too short/long?

As GTSBoy said, take the whole lot to a tailshaft/driveshaft place (Hardy Spicer is an example) and get them to do the work for you based of how the assembly is sitting in your car.

Edited by R32Abuser

Sorry to say but you are wrong. Rang up hardy spicer today and apparently they don't keep records and guess what it's a Monday also.

Anyone with any useful information that could help me out?

Spicers are a bit random. I did say "any decent tailshaft place". I don't think we got Spicers to do mine. You could take your tailshaft bits to FoursNMore at Pooraka and get Brenton to sort it out for you. His story about how mine got done reads EXACTLY as I wrote in my first post. We took measurements of distance from gearbox extension to centre bearing bolt holes, he took the parts to the tailshaft place, guy at the counter gave the "oh, another RB25 into R32" shrug and went away and did it.

The only problem we had is that the tailshaft joints in Adelaide are sometimes so busy that you can't get anything done for weeks at a time.

Got basically the same story from Adelaide Tailshaft Services aswel that they only make them up if you provide measurements, didn't think it would vary from car to car so much and assumed they kept records also. Will have to measure it all up once gearbox is in it seems.

Anyone able to shed any light on what clutch master/crossmember to use? Always find more hurdles with modifying cars it seems ;)

Same clutch master is fine. Trans crossmember is harder. There are three types, marked A, B and C. They are mix-matched across various cars depending on which gearbox is in there. For example, the R32 auto uses a different one to the R32 manual. I can't remember which is which and I'm not going to try sliding under my car to tell you which one I've got in there!!! If you get hold of one of each, you should just be able to throw it in the car on the day.

Clutch slave sorry, makes sense R32 one doesn't bolt up to R33 bellhousing so will need an R33 unit obviously.

I have an A and C, apparently it's different converting auto to manual or manual 20 box to 25 box so guess there is no definite answer but hopefully one of the two I have bolt up

I went from R32 auto to manual and had to change crossmember. Then RB25 box transplant and had to change crossmember. I have a strong suspicion that I have the same type under there now as when it was RB20 auto. If that helps. Won't help if yours is a manual body.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...