Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah that is completely wrong

it should never be like that

if you unplug the AFM sensor completely does it do the same thing?

if you unplug the TPS sensor completely does it do the same thing?

when you unplug the sensor on a car thats running a PFC the sensor name will go in black highlight under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and the engine light will come on

this might give away which of the sensors wires is mangled up

if you unplug the AFM at the sensor and it still shows a value you know the AFM wires are f**ked

if you unplug the TPS sensor and the values go away you know the TPS is at least wired in properly, but could still be bridged at the loom etc

yeah that is completely wrong

it should never be like that

if you unplug the AFM sensor completely does it do the same thing?

if you unplug the TPS sensor completely does it do the same thing?

when you unplug the sensor on a car thats running a PFC the sensor name will go in black highlight under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and the engine light will come on

this might give away which of the sensors wires is mangled up

if you unplug the AFM at the sensor and it still shows a value you know the AFM wires are f**ked

if you unplug the TPS sensor and the values go away you know the TPS is at least wired in properly, but could still be bridged at the loom etc

Thanks for the info I will try that later. I do know that I can completely have the MAF disconnected and the same voltage phenomenon occurs. However if the MAF is not plugged in the car won't start and run its a strange scene to be sure. It seems the MAF is still giving a reading but it is also reading from the TPS as well hence the weird voltage fun. Since I have wired the MAF directly into the PFC with my own wire that leads me to believe that the PFC is the culprit however I will do some further troubleshooting with your advice such as unplugging TPS etc. I will keep you posted on what I find.

Edited by debusan
  • 4 years later...

Any resolution to this? 

I am having the exact same issue on my 34 Gtt with power fc. 

Car was warming up and died.

will crank twice, fire, then die a second later. 

Motor has 160-165 across all 6. 

New gs342 Walbro's are running fine

Unplugged afm, still reads same value as tps.

unplugged tps, no value registers 

Tomei plug will only go on 1 way, all soldered joints good.

Loom not melted/ no rub throughs/ all behind heat shield. 

Ecu connector looks ok. No pinched wires, terminals seated in connector. Nothing stands out, 

Found a shit ground in engine bay near turbo, Ran a test piece to ground motor to strut tower. Same result.

z32 and Tomei plug is 500km old

tune by Jez on power fc is only 500km old.

really hoping I don't have to fork out for a new Ecu.

For anyone with an issue like this in future. Been talking to fc hako re a possible repair to the ecu, he suggested I pop open the afm to check for dry joints in the pins at main connector. Joints were good but four this, brand new afm from justjap also.

1 circuit not soldered and the Blob of solder intended for bare joint bridging 2 circuits, unpicked with finger nail, no penetration to solder on other circuits but enough to bridge them.
First thoughts would be it should have fizzed at first power up before I even hit the dyno, but it's possible the blob dis lodged and rolled to its final spot.
New z32 tomoz, will power up and see if ecu will work per normal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
×
×
  • Create New...