Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone my pride and joy is up for sale.

Ive owned the car about 4 years now it was road registered up until a year ago when i turned her into a track only car

I used it for track and club days out at winton where i got my best time of 1:45.

Car has never been drifted!

Car

1993 R32 Nissan Skyline GTS-t

Not registered TRACK ONLY!!!

Gun metal grey

Motor- 167,xxx ks

Motor

RB20DET

Hypergear Hiflowed R33 turbo

PWR Intercooler with return loop piping

Splitfire Coils

3” Turbo back exhaust into Xforce cannon muffler

K&N Pod filter enclosed

Turbosmart boost Tee (12-13psi)

Alloy Radiator

Gates Racing Timing Belt

Permaseal MLS-R layered exhaust manifold gaskets

NGK iridium spark plugs

Drift catch can with filter

Walbro high performance fuel pump

Battery relocated in boot

Aircon completely removed

H/Duty clutch (brand and age unknown)

 

Suspension/Handling

HSD Coilovers F-8kg R-6kg

SRI adjustable front castor rods

R33 lower control arms

Solid steering spacer/bush

Gktech adjustable rear camber arms

Whiteline sway bars front/rear

Whiteline Hicas lock bar

Whiteline front strut brace

Nismo rear strut brace

Hicas completely removed

DBA slotted rotors front/read

Bendix ultimate pads front/rear

Ferodo 5.1 racing brake fluid (flushed regularly)

Brake master cylinder recently rebuilt

Brake master cylinder stopper

The car uses Dunlop formula R semi slicks 225 / 50 / 16, which are on a set of R33 GTS-t rims. I also have another set of the same semi slicks on the standard R32 GTS-t rims (tires are pretty dead one has a flat spot) I’ve just kept them as spares.

 

Exterior

Type M side skirts

Rear spoiler removed(holes filled and painted)

Rear wiper assembly removed

LH head light replaced with fibreglass air intake

Front bumper cut to fit intercooler

Bonnet pins

Interior

Autotechnica fibreglass bucket seat(driver)

OMP 3” 4-point harness(driver)

Standard R32 passenger seat

Autotechnica 2” 4-point harness(passenger)

Turbosmart boost gauge

JJR 350mm suede deep steering wheel

HKB boss kit

D1 steering wheel quick release kit

Dildo gear knob

Fire extinguisher

Interior has been completely striped no tar, sound deadening, glue, padding, including the boot.

Heater and aircon are gone. All plastic trimming is gone( except door cards )

Info

Car is serviced every couple of track days using Penrite oils, this includes the gearbox and diff which was last done about 2 months ago.

Water pump was replaced when the timing belt was done for peace of mind ,which was about 2 years ago.

I’ve replaced a lot of the hoses over the years including water, vacuum and power steering.

90% of the steering parts would only be 6 months old.

I’ve painstakingly looked after this car from the day I got it and have spent a lot of time and money doing so.

The clutch bearing is a little noisey and the pads dont have much life left

The body has the normal amount of bumps and scratches.

Will be very sad to see it go, I said I’d never sell her but unfortunately times change.

Price

I’m wanting $7000ono but am very open to offers. I need the car gone in the next couple of months but will not be low balled into giving it away!!! Like I said I’m open to reasonable offers!!

If you want any more info feel free to ask, I’m not on the forum much so call or msg me on

Car is advertised else where also

0-4-three-8-six-7-3-nine-4-five

post-54556-0-32114900-1358678367_thumb.jpg

post-54556-0-26134000-1358678380_thumb.jpg

post-54556-0-21887100-1358678392_thumb.jpg

Will get more pics up tomorrow. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418185-1993-r32-gtst-track-car/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not!
    • So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years).   Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake.  This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.
    • Noise sounds to me could be either wheel bearing related (have had similar from bearings going) or that tail shaft is still loose. Or something like a heat shield touching the tail shaft.
    • You wouldn't get away with saying the opposite, if you were there.
    • Do some wool fluff testing on the vents
×
×
  • Create New...