Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's one I tried some AMMO on Matt...personal project I've been working on, I spent the best part of three days with the polisher on most of the major panels...but bumpers ,mirrors are too faded and will require repainting though when I get some time so i wont to bother show pics of them...Unfortunately with the lighting conditions of my carport and the 23 yr old paint, its near impossible to get every scratch out...but its close ...

Has a few layers of skin and 1 of creme atm, but i think my favourite so far has to be the hydrate.....its very enjoyable to use for everyday detailing duties :)

DSCN0542_zps69f38061.jpg

DSCN0783_zpse04af55c.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up some IronX a couple weeks back, had heard some pretty good things about it and wasnt disappointed!

Start with some pretty filthy wheels

post-61032-0-78627000-1391767290_thumb.jpg

Spray and leave for a few minutes

post-61032-0-77473800-1391767312_thumb.jpg

Then clean off

post-61032-0-29341400-1391767345_thumb.jpg

And finished with some Poorboys wheel sealant and also Poorboys tyre gel

post-61032-0-44549000-1391767410_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Pretty much my first real attempt at detailing and polishing, did it on my new home respray job on my track car.

Used a super cheap DA polisher then scholls s3 gold for cutting and s30+ for polish as recomended from Antonio from waxit and I'm very happy how well the product works no mess at all! Car was rubbed down with 2000grit wet after spray before cut and polishing it.

post-50426-0-82228100-1395743003_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-57843300-1395743066_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-40945500-1395743110_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-56915300-1395743167_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-24795900-1395743210_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

my new home respray job on my track car.

Looks like it came up pretty good :thumbsup:

I've got a couple of panels here i've meen meaning to have a crack at but i've got no idea, what process/steps did you use? (sand > clean > primer > paint > clear > sand > polish) etc.

Quick wash and clay, followed by testing out Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish on the lip. Came up heaps better but definitely more to go. Spent probably 20 minutes just on the lip of this one, need a hell of a lot of elbow grease.

post-63773-0-89092700-1396515812_thumb.jpg

Looks like it came up pretty good :thumbsup:

I've got a couple of panels here i've meen meaning to have a crack at but i've got no idea, what process/steps did you use? (sand > clean > primer > paint > clear > sand > polish) etc.

pg[/url]

Process was basically get thd body dtraight since it was completly damaged both sides so alot of oxy and body filler lol but then it was final sand , primer, 800 grit sand, fill any holes with putty, sand putty with 400, then primer over putty areas, sand 800 again, paint, then sand 2000 , cut, polish.

I didnt use a clear since its a solid colour and also its going to be constantly repaired and touched up so makes it easier with no clear. In saying that i consoder my process a rough job if you want to go step further after paint sand down with 1200 then 1500 then 2000 folowed by cut polish will give a perfect finish but takes considerably longer since that last sanding process takes the longest.

Edited by boostn0199

C'mon dude where's the photo of your reflection in the paintwork....anything can look shiny from a distance. :rofl:

loll kind of ran out of time and and no good lighting at the time ended up finishing the job at like 4am took those couple of pics then onto the trailer and drift event next day, now its dirty again, will get some closeups after i wash it next time.

Hi Nicr4wks,

I was running with the distribution of AMMO in Australia.

Unfortunattly when it was first released we were not seeing a high enough volume and shipping was too expensive for our volumes.

I would suggest that the cheapest option would be for you to purchase directly from the ammo website.

You will find that the cost of the suff online is the same price if not cheaper

Cheers,

Matt

www.upcd.com.au

Hi, I did not take any before shots , this car was in a garage for 5 years and I think it must have had holes in the roof, the water etchings were really deep and took forever to get the crap out.

Going to wax it when it get it back from the workshop :yes:

post-52098-0-86726300-1397026240_thumb.jpg

post-52098-0-68516600-1397026200_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...