Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Another job that I just did over this long weekend on my new car that I just got. Used meguiars NXT wash followed by contours clay bar, scholls s3 cutt scholls s30 polish and finished it off with contours drift coat wax.

post-50426-0-21709200-1398060644_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-98715000-1398060705_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-75247900-1398060989_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-69455100-1398061274_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-62430900-1398061312_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-60815200-1398061515_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-76271600-1398061577_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-37812700-1398061867_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

I finally picked up some simple green and attacked the engine bay!

Worked amazingly well if I say so myself =D

attachicon.gifb41low.jpg attachicon.gifb42low.jpg

attachicon.gifaftr1low.jpg attachicon.gifaftr2low.jpg

thats is amazing man...good work...

was that a spray on spray off job, or lots of rags and elbow grease??

i ahve an engine to work on as well, might give it a try...

here a quick before after shot of a panel I'm working on atm

DSCN1160_zps0ca210cd.jpg

DSCN1159_zps9b0a62d0.jpg

  • Like 1

was that a spray on spray off job, or lots of rags and elbow grease??

Thanks!

There was a little bit of elbow grease but nothing to complain about. Spray simple green on, let it sit for ~10 secs, wipe over the spot a couple of times with a rag then hose off. At the very end I got the compressor out and dried everything. The green almost seems to 'lift' the grease from the paint, so you literally just wipe it off once it's been soaking for a few secs.

That's an awesome polish job, it's so clear at first I thought you had taken a photo of the lamp and the red was lens flare :P

Hey which simple green product did you use...i saw them at bunnings but there was a few different products most of which were kitchen cleaners and such...didnt see any degreasers of any sort...

bought a bottle of this Ooomph shit instead...sprayed on and hosed off...seemed to work ok...

cars coming along :)

DSCN1174_zps444393fd.jpg

Here is some work I have done on my mk3 supra, I am a little behind on the latest products but the gear I have seems to be working well.

I got stuck into some polish work on the paint, at some stage the car has been resprayed but had not seen polish for a few years, all the paint had gone very chalky, if you run your fingers over it you would end up with white finger tips.
So I had a play around on the front guard with some hand polishing, first I hit it with a clay bar and then some ultimate cut.
IMG_3682.jpg
Then I decided to get serious, I bought a proper random orbit machine from a detail supplier, this is the results on the roof after wet sanding and polish, im still yet to finish the car but you get the idea.
IMG_3897.jpg
This is the wet sanding pads I bought
20130107_131602.jpg
Heres what I started with
IMG_3966_zps824a5129.jpg
so first up I wet sanded with the 3000 grit disc on my RO machine, I know the paint is thick so I can get away with the wet sanding first, heres my machine fitted with the disc
20130408_155001_zps854d6029.jpg
next comes a lake country wool pad with menzerna 500
20130408_155700_zpsda613e24.jpg
followed by maguires ultimate cut compound on a lake country orange pad, the photo shows the amount of polish required when using this system.
IMG_3943_zpsef204efe.jpg
next is the finishing pass using lake country black pad with menzerna 4000
IMG_3955_zpsd0069360.jpg
And finally a wax to protect it, for this I use colinite 845
IMG_3960_zpsedc22404.jpg
Its important to mask it up as this is messy work and you can spend hours cleaning the trim pieces up
tapeup_zps1107e448.jpg
And finally the finished waxed panel, I find white is a bugger to photograph but there is a significant change in the finish of the paint, This panel took around an 1 1/2 hours to refinish to my standard but the results are worth it.
finishquarter_zps256bb951.jpg
20130409_114931_zpse7019788.jpg

Engine bay before and after, using simple green and a tooth brush followed with a coat of basic polish.

At the start
IMG_3652.jpg
Now
IMG_3988_zpse6e1c491.jpg
Edited by Peterj
  • Like 1

Here is some work I have done on my mk3 supra, I am a little behind on the latest products but the gear I have seems to be working well.

I got stuck into some polish work on the paint, at some stage the car has been resprayed but had not seen polish for a few years, all the paint had gone very chalky, if you run your fingers over it you would end up with white finger tips.
So I had a play around on the front guard with some hand polishing, first I hit it with a clay bar and then some ultimate cut.
IMG_3682.jpg
Then I decided to get serious, I bought a proper random orbit machine from a detail supplier, this is the results on the roof after wet sanding and polish, im still yet to finish the car but you get the idea.
IMG_3897.jpg
This is the wet sanding pads I bought
20130107_131602.jpg

Heres what I started with
IMG_3966_zps824a5129.jpg
so first up I wet sanded with the 3000 grit disc on my RO machine, I know the paint is thick so I can get away with the wet sanding first, heres my machine fitted with the disc
20130408_155001_zps854d6029.jpg
next comes a lake country wool pad with menzerna 500
20130408_155700_zpsda613e24.jpg
followed by maguires ultimate cut compound on a lake country orange pad, the photo shows the amount of polish required when using this system.
IMG_3943_zpsef204efe.jpg
next is the finishing pass using lake country black pad with menzerna 4000
IMG_3955_zpsd0069360.jpg
And finally a wax to protect it, for this I use colinite 845
IMG_3960_zpsedc22404.jpg
Its important to mask it up as this is messy work and you can spend hours cleaning the trim pieces up
tapeup_zps1107e448.jpg
And finally the finished waxed panel, I find white is a bugger to photograph but there is a significant change in the finish of the paint, This panel took around an 1 1/2 hours to refinish to my standard but the results are worth it.
finishquarter_zps256bb951.jpg
20130409_114931_zpse7019788.jpg

Engine bay before and after, using simple green and a tooth brush followed with a coat of basic polish.

At the start
IMG_3652.jpg
Now
IMG_3988_zpse6e1c491.jpg

I started reading & thought; "I recognise that wheel!" Lol.

Looking at it now; you take for granted what it looked like when you first bought it. Such a big change.

Now do my car; please? :thumbsup:

Hey which simple green product did you use...i saw them at bunnings but there was a few different products most of which were kitchen cleaners and such...didnt see any degreasers of any sort...

The simple green website has a degreaser listed but I haven't seen it at Bunnings either. I'm fairly certain I picked up the all purpose cleaner, I've just moved house and have no idea which boxes my cleaning gear is in. http://www.bunnings.com.au/simple-green-946ml-all-purpose-cleaner-_p4470276

Ok was just going through some photos and it appears I have completely changed the colour of the car :blink:

before washing

10322805_10152461497696499_7788075016423

after wash and polish looking a little more shiney

10363331_10152461511976499_1629275090900

after glaze and wax applied it appears to have turned orange

DSCN1784_zpsd4c9bbee.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

How can i make my window rubber surrounds black again? They're chalky and look shit.

I've tried 4 coats of back to black and it lasted a few months but I'm after something that will be glossy and last. You detailers must know of something ;)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
×
×
  • Create New...