If you had to spend $3000-$5000

[JAMESW]

Lets just say that i wanted to build up a rb25de engine and i was going to spend somewhere in the range of $3000 to $5000 ontop of the engine cost.

What i would like to know is what kind of results would you get, as in rwkw?

This is what ive come up with as what i would do to start with, no idea how much it would cost so could some people with the knowledge please advise me.(MEGALA)

Please post your ideas and information aswell as im trying to build up my knowledge of these cars.

Rb30 bottom end : $

Port : $

Cams : $

3" exhaust : $

Pod filter : $

Pod Box : $

CAI : $

The above is just from a quick brainstorn, please feel free to add to the list.

Thanks. James.

[NA_R33]

prolly go aftermarket managment like the greedy emanage, thats 700 plus 100 for injector harness. Workshops charge alot of labour if u can do stuff urself u would save lots of money but ill give u some ruff estimates.

rb30 bottom end say 400 from trading post

500 bucks to get that matched to ur head from a workshop that has done it before

1000 re grinding ur cams

800 porting

extractors would be off the shelf items modified to a slightly larger exaust, 3 inch would probably be a bit big id look at 2 1/2 so 250 for extractors 100 bucks for cat, bout 600-800 for mandrel bent car back

nepod filter and a nice piece of polished pipe to go from the intake manifold 200 bucks all up including placment of the pod in the front bar for true cai.

approx 1500 for greedy emanage install and tune.

Total Approx 5350-5500 and that would be one sweet engine minus a few more things like balancing the crank more dollars and lots of labour and possibly raising the compression slightly and maybe multiple throttle bodies. those would be the few things left without getting into super big dollars.

It would be very hard to estimate what sort of power figures could be achieved without actually doing it but for arguments sake this was going to be my engine (listed above plus forgies for big gas) but i went with the v8 to be a bit different. I would say with good few over 200kw's at the crank would not be un achievable.

[JAMESW]

so that 5500 is getting it done at a workshop, not me doing it?

That is pritty good. I plan to do this to be a little different, not many done up N/A's going around.

and im also concidering after that to mabe supercharge it, but would prolly keep it N/A as i dont want to go to forced induction like everyoe else does.

James.

[JAMESW]

I allready have the extractors and a unichip, so i can cross them off the list.

[666DAN]

Hmmm I've got a list somwhere around of all the things I was going to get done to my car before the turbo got bolted on.

It basically involved a 3 litre block, compression increased, ECU, Injectors, port & polish...well basically most of what John said.

Guesstimated power was in the region of 200Kw at the fly.....but as I said I just bolted on a turbo, did the ECU and a few other bits...ended up being half the price for more power.

Dan

[Merli]

This is a no-brainer really.

Buy and install an RB25DET - $3000

Sell your RB25DE - ($800)

----------------------------------

Total: $2200

Full Exhaust - $1500

Turbosmart E-Boost - $650

Power FC - $1000

----------------------------------

SubTotal: $3150

===================

TOTAL: $5350

===================

Power.... Oh............... Around 180rwkw / 230kw

[NA_R33]

yes but he doesnt want a turbo...

If u want to be like that, VH45DE (my engine) 2800 bucks

600 bucks for all the raw materials to build a full exaust including cat and extractors 175rwkws from a basically stock engine that can handle up to 14psi from a supercharger with stock internals bang 300rwkws........

[JAMESW]

This is a no-brainer really.

Buy and install an RB25DET - $3000

Sell your RB25DE - ($800)

----------------------------------

Total: $2200

Full Exhaust - $1500

Turbosmart E-Boost - $650

Power FC - $1000

----------------------------------

SubTotal: $3150

===================

TOTAL: $5350

===================

Power.... Oh............... Around 180rwkw / 230kw

Yeah i know what your saying... but do you really think it that much of a bad idea to spend 5000 on a N/A?

One day yes i would like to own a 260rwkw Beast but im only 19 and have has the car for about 6 months now. so selling the car after only 6 months isnt really a smart option, and im not soo keen on doing the engine transplant as it will never be able to make huge power without having to change the gearbox and shit.

James.

[Guest Munky]

I'm in the same boat. I definitely think I'll turbo mine tho in about 3 - 4 years.

Just a few quick questions:

1.) If i get a full exhaust system now for my R34 N/A and I turbo it later down the track, would I have to get a completely new exhaust system again (hence making the current one a waste of money), or could I just change the end of it (dunno any part names, I'm a newbie at car talk)

2.) Would you bother turboing an N/A r34? I'm thinking I really wanna keep it, considering they are alot less common than r33's, and by that stage I would have done quite a few aesthetic mods to it. Would it be more feasible to just buy an R33 GTR tho by that stage? I think the mods I'm planning on doing to my car will make it hold alot of sentimental value tho...

3.) Having installed a new engine w/ turbo, obviously the life of the car increases alot. How do aftermarket turbos effect the resale value?

4.) Is there much chance that something will go wrong, and that I'll be left with a car which no longer runs at its full capacity.

5.) I've heard that aftermarket turbos are actually better than stocks as you have alot more customizability options (is that even a word :|). Any truth to this?

6.) What the fk is a powerchip?

Sorry, I'm not attempting to hi jack this thread, I just thought it's not worth starting a new one so similar to this. Please try answer all the questions and not just my last one

Cheers

[666DAN]

Munky:

1: Go for it, I've got the stock N/A peashooter still and it's fine...so an aftermarket one would suffice (I'm gettin my one replaced one day though)

2:Yes

3:You're not getting your money back anyway so spend away

4: You would hope to god no...but things go wrong with any car, yours wouldn't be special

5:It depends what you want out of your car, and what supporting components you have

6:A remapped chip to take advantage of your mods and to get extra power from adjusting the factory MAP

[Merli]

Yeah i know what your saying... but do you really think it that much of a bad idea to spend 5000 on a N/A?

One day yes i would like to own a 260rwkw Beast but im only 19 and have has the car for about 6 months now. so selling the car after only 6 months isnt really a smart option, and im not soo keen on doing the engine transplant as it will never be able to make huge power without having to change the gearbox and shit.

James.

You want my honest opinion? From someone who has spent more money than you would believe modifying N/A cars?

Save your money. Do an exhaust for a nice sound and suspension mods for handling if you want to, but don't chase power with an N/A engine. It's ridiculous to spend $1500 on an exhaust and gain 3-5kw... PowerFC, another 10kw.. Do the same mods to a GTS-t and pump up the boost via a $150 bleed valve and you'll gain about 40-50kw. Ridiculous isn't it?

In 5 years time when you start modifying turbocharged cars, you'll see that for the $10000 you spent on the N/A engine, you get the same gains with an exhaust and increased boost for $1500.

Modifying an N/A car is a complete waste of time and your hard earnt money. Save it all up for when you get yourself a turbo car and then go nuts With all the money you save you'll be able to modify your turbo car into an absolute MONSTER

[slip]

If you are into driving your car hard - spend the money on big brakes (gtst) and good suspension (if you havent already). youll be quicker through the mountains/time trials/track/anything other than a straight line.

worked for me. easy to drive and control, stops hard and safe, quick in mountains/time trials, just slow off the mark.

[doxximus]

suspension and breaks are a damn good idea, i went the turbo route already (like what merli suggested, but no pfc and eboost but safc and bleedvalve [166.6rwkw]) and i just got my car back with new tein flex. next would be breaks.

if i could spend it again, i would of done suspension and breaks right from the start

[croat]

Save your $$$ and buy a gtst. It is by far the only reasonable option.

[Guest Munky]

Dan666:

Will I have to get my entire exhaust changed though? Or just change the end of it or something (ie. not buy an entire new exhaust system)

[geordie]

If your going for the 3ltr bottom end your going to need to shave the block or something, to raise compression. Because once fitting the rb25 head it lowers compression to 8.9:1(from memory) stock is 10:1(from memory again). These figures are well documented in the turbo section of the forum for the 3ltr conversion. Also give you many pointers should you wish to undergo this conversion your self. That said, this lowering in compression would be good if you wanted to undergo the forced induction route (ie: Supercharger). As the N/A's compresion ratio is to great for a simple bolt on turbo job (as most of you prolly already know)

[hawks]

theres an old saying 'theres no substitute for cubes' and in n/a circles this is true. if you want more performance from your n/a motor you will have to increase its capacity. to be honest, even 3 litres is not a huge n/a engine, espicially for a six cylinder.

so i reckon you have 3 options if you want to stay ahead of the pack.

1. fit a bigger motor, ie a 1uz or a vh45

2. fit a rb25det, or better still, sell your car and buy a gts-t

3. if you love n/a engines, buy a car that they are suited too.

my 2 cents

[Cecam]

A few years back, there was myself (R32 GTS), and three friends with R32 GTS25's. Plus the others with the turbo Skylines etc, I did the exhaust and pod and gained about 12kW and that was me as I saw no point in going further with an n/a. The other three decided they would stick it out with their N/a's while I went turbo.

So after lightened flywheels, extractors, cams, cam gears, ecu reprogrammed and all the rest of it the end result... almost as fast my turbo Skyline I had spent nothing on...

They had the response and was quite hard to keep up on really twisty roads but anywhere I could open up, or esp at the drags I would leave them behind no worries.

Two of the cars are now fitted with largish turbos and ones been sold and replaced with turbo Silvia. No one I know who was dedicated to N/A has stuck with it long term, you can get good power but the car will be a complete pig to drive and a cost a heap for little return.

Go with Merli's suggestion and just go turbo, as you'll go that way sooner or later anyways.

[666DAN]

Munky: No you only need to have the front dump-pipe welded up to your existing system the N/A peashooter can stay...until you get fed up with it really. My one is fine blowing down the equivalent of a straw

Geordie: There is nothing wrong with 10:1 compression and bolting on a turbo....there are quite a few of us that have done this with no problems...you just need to have decent engine management and know the limits of your tuning. It's not uncommon for some of the GTR owners to have upped the factory compression to make good use of the earlier spooling potential.

[Genesis®]

If you are into driving your car hard - spend the money on big brakes (gtst) and good suspension (if you havent already).  youll be quicker through the mountains/time trials/track/anything other than a straight line.

worked for me.  easy to drive and control, stops hard and safe, quick in mountains/time trials, just slow off the mark.

:werd:

p.s. - this kuku kicks all turboed arses up AND down the mountains...