Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe, @stealthfoz dynos are all different..

Not too worried as it's not a race car only diference to run down is ET streets rather than the nt05's.

What setup is the s13?

Should be a pretty big weight difference?

Auto/stock manual/something else?

I've Still only done 2 full runs, just with a stock 33 box, maybe I'm also a shit driver haha

other run was 10.4 @ 143, still haven't gone full boost in any gear, nearly full boost in 4th but I've got it pulled out of other gears for traction, will be putting more boost into 2-3-4th gears next time, but I'm happy with 1st with the 1.4 60'

Maybe, @stealthfoz dynos are all different..

Not too worried as it's not a race car only diference to run down is ET streets rather than the nt05's.

What setup is the s13?

Should be a pretty big weight difference?

Auto/stock manual/something else?

I've Still only done 2 full runs, just with a stock 33 box, maybe I'm also a shit driver haha

other run was 10.4 @ 143, still haven't gone full boost in any gear, nearly full boost in 4th but I've got it pulled out of other gears for traction, will be putting more boost into 2-3-4th gears next time, but I'm happy with 1st with the 1.4 60'

mine weighs 1300kg, manual. rb25/30.

its got an RB26 in it stealthfoz.

Everyone seems to think having a manual box and ET Streets is a big reason for not getting the et down but there are plenty of people who can do it so don't know why this car wont. I would love to have Royce's 60 foot time

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

^whats the clutch like?

The more i watch mates race. The more i think that anything more than

A big single plate may shock the tyre to much and you need that slip

To get the car to roll out a few ft before smashing the tyre

I know radials are a lot worse for that aswell

  • 2 weeks later...

^whats the clutch like?

The more i watch mates race. The more i think that anything more than

A big single plate may shock the tyre to much and you need that slip

To get the car to roll out a few ft before smashing the tyre

I know radials are a lot worse for that aswell

I would agree with that darren, ive stuck with a single plate for that reason, also bit lest shock for the gearbox, so they last longer.

  • 4 weeks later...

its got an RB26 in it stealthfoz.

Everyone seems to think having a manual box and ET Streets is a big reason for not getting the et down but there are plenty of people who can do it so don't know why this car wont. I would love to have Royce's 60 foot time

I'll drive it if you like. ;-)

  • 11 months later...

Maybe, @stealthfoz dynos are all different..

Not too worried as it's not a race car only diference to run down is ET streets rather than the nt05's.

What setup is the s13?

Should be a pretty big weight difference?

Auto/stock manual/something else?

I've Still only done 2 full runs, just with a stock 33 box, maybe I'm also a shit driver haha

other run was 10.4 @ 143, still haven't gone full boost in any gear, nearly full boost in 4th but I've got it pulled out of other gears for traction, will be putting more boost into 2-3-4th gears next time, but I'm happy with 1st with the 1.4 60'

You still on a stock bottom end??

  • 7 months later...

Im currently sitting in the ~420kw bracket (same dyno as royce) with an r33 gtst so for argument sake say 1450kgs.. so in theory i should be running 130/135mph? I havent taken the car to the motorplex yet as i need to sort the diff and shafts out first but im very keen to have a shot and back up the figure hopefully.

Surely torque has alot to do with the MPH.. a 400kw 25 would run slower then a 400kw 30 would it not?

Even a 100kg difference between cars would have to have quite a toll on the MPH surely.

 

Edited by azzada1
  • 1 month later...

what are people's thoughts on the impact on the 1/4 MPH when comparing the 32 GTR with a 33/34 GTR.

500kw on a 32 would give you 140mph, however the 33/34 have another ~100kgs on the 32.

From some calculators online, it seem the MPH would be 3-4 miles lower on a 33/34 GTR with the exact same setup as a result of the additional weight.

Partially explains why all the fastest street GTRs are 32s...

  • Like 1

I think weight is often over looked for sake of tugging over dyno figures.. Doesnt matter if your car is 2000kgs and 500kw if its not running 140mph alot of people will still just call BS on the figure and not even think to consider weight.. I recall afew years back mercury motorsports being criticised about there dyno figures because nitto (34) wasn't running as high mph as some r32 gtrs with similar power... in realitly it was a full weight road car with a cage lol.. 

  • 1 year later...
13 hours ago, Taha said:

Hi made 554 rwkw 6466 gen2  32went 10.4 @140.7mph  on a  1.8360foot was happy with mph

Done  a 1.52 60 foot snapped rear left shaft was really chasing a 9 on stock bottom end 

 

Tuned at jem 

 

 

IMG_2675.jpg

i did exactly the same. i lowered rear tyre pressure to 14 and Adam turned up the 2step. next launch snapped the rear shaft.

2 hours ago, Taha said:

 My Speedo cable was out  so no 2 step was shattered after I did 1.52 60  as I'm on bought time with the stock box

 

What clutch are you running  usmair

OS GIKEN triple plate at the time.

Have now upgraded to a quad plate as a result of a misdiagnosis.

I've got a 6 speed GETRAG though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...