Jump to content
SAU Community

Can't Undo My Diff Fill Bolt

SiR_RB
 Share

Recommended Posts

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Leverege is the answer!. I presume it's a 1/2 plug where you use the breaker bar or ratchet straight into the plug? If yes, put the breaker bar on it and put and extension onto the breaker bar (piece of pipe). They get overtightened when reinstalled for some reason. They really only need to be firmly tightened not done up like they're holding the whole car together like they seem to be most of the time!

Otherwise you could try a bit of heat (a bit, not glowing red!) around the bung. This will hopefully soften any seallant that's on it and enlarge the housing a little to loosen it as the alloy will expand quicker than the steel plug.

Good luck!

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

If you can get someone else to maintain the pressure on the breaker bar while it's being heated that will make life easier and you don't over or under heat it. IT will let go as soon as it reaches the right temp. Don't burn him though, he might not come back....

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Ok so I jacked it up, and with afew extra inches or leverage and using my foot (nearly doing my back lol) she cracked, you beauty !!

good news :)

I was going to say...be careful with 1/2" extensions/breaker bars etc. Often the plugs are a little round already and you can really f**k it.

You can get 13mm square fittings for this exact job. They are a lot tighter fit and won't round it off. The one I have is 13mm square at one and and 19mm hex at the other so you can put a big spanner or bar over it to get the leverage you need.

But I'll be f**ked if I understand why they are alawys so damn tight! Even when I put them back in a little loose, it takes f**king superman to take them off again!

wouldnt go crazy with the leverage as you might strip the 1/2" socket, tap and heat works for sure

damn straight, good tips.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Me, if I ever floor the car
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • joshuaho96
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...