Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 Gtst front brakes and rear brakes complete with rear 5 stud hub and handbrake assembly with cables

$450 ono

R34 Gtt standard wheels painted flat black undamaged $300

R34 Gtt rear subframe and all suspension arms with hicas still on it $200

R33 rear end subframe all arms diff and 5 bolt CV shafts etc.... $250

R34 gtt drivers door damaged but good for window motor $100 (has door trim)

R34 GTT NISMO Bilstein suspension feels much nicer on the road then chinese coilovers $400 and can fit for $150

R34 gtt front headlights, lenses damaged but good for xenon globes, and ballasts etc... pair for $100

R34 gtt front strut brace $50

R34 gtt front crossmember complete with steering rack $150

R34 gtt front uprights with 5 stud hubs etc.... $150 for both sides Bearings feel perfect

R34 gtt rear bar in white undamaged $150

R34 gtt drivers side skirt undamaged, passenger side is rooted in white $50

FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER KIT HYBRID BRAND WAS BRAND NEW ONLY FITTED TO THE CAR FOR A FEW DAYS COST ME $650 PLUS POSTAGE WILL SELL FOR $450 ono

AND CAN FIT FOR $200

R34 GTT rear spoiler in white $50

R34 GTT fibreglass vented bonnet , slightly damaged and chipped $50 can be fixed

R34 gtt radiator support panel, chopped off at strut towers $150

May have other stuff just ask

Tim

0404321205

Located in sydney

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418763-r32-and-r34-parts-wrecking/
Share on other sites

will post anywhere in Aust

Send me a text so i have your number and ill send you a pic of parts....

Intercooler is still as new, still have origional box and instruction manual to install it.

0404321205

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...